Ape Factory
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- Bronco Raptor
Instead of crawling underneath the Raptor, investing in aftermarket pan drain plugs and likely getting oil all over the place, the extraction method is all done from the top of the car in the engine bay.
Tools you'll need!
-Oil extractor. I'm using a Schwaben vacuum extractor which utilizes a pump handle to either suction fluid in to the reservoir or pump it out. There are newer models available that use an air compressor. My extractor holds about six liters so I need to empty it out at least once during the fluid change since the Braptor takes 7 liters. This is a dual power one, either hand pump or air compressor Schwaben dual power extractor
-You may need an additional accessory pack of extractor hose. I believe the 3/16" hose works with the Raptor and it's included in the above kit. I'll measure and update this thread. The larger hoses don't fit.
-27mm socket, extension and ratchet. This is for the filter housing.
-small pick of your choice, makes getting the o-rings off the housing easier.
-Small step stool like this for getting up and over the engine. Not needed if you're 6'7" or over.
-Shop rags or paper towels
-Funnel or valve cover adapter funnel for the Braptor
-Underhood lighting (just makes finding everything easier).
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
-28Nm for the plastic filter housing.
You'll also need:
-Seven liters of your preferred oil, Ford specification WSS-M2C961-A1
-Ford Oil Filter, part number FL2062A. It should have two larger and one small o-ring included in the package.
I always change my oil after I've been driving. It'll go much more quickly with an extractor if the oil is very warm to hot as it flows more freely. I usually pull into the garage and let the car sit for 15-20 minutes.
-Step one, remove the valve cover oil filler plug which is located on the driver's side valve cover towards the front. Very easy to see.
-Step two, remove the oil filter housing. I stuff rags or paper towels around the base of the filter housing as well as on top of anything under the hood that might get oil dripped on it. The filter housing has a hex on top that takes a 27mm socket. I use a long socket, short extension and a ratchet.
Conversely, you can simply remove the fill plug on the valve cover and change the filter while you're extracting oil. There's likely no real vacuum hindering extraction but I do it this way just as a preventative measure.
-Step three, find the dipstick on the driver's side of the engine. Note the arrow points outboard. Remove the dipstick, wiping oil off as you remove it so as not to drip any into the engine bay.
-Step four, set up your extractor and use the smallest 3/16" hose extension. Insert it into the dipstick receptacle. You may find a bit of resistance but it'll slide in as long as the hose outside diameter isn't too large. Be sure to test your hose before starting the oil change process!
-Step five, with the valve on the extractor open and set for extraction, pump up the extractor to begin the suction process. I found that towards the end, it was necessary to pull up a bit on the hose as it likely hit the bottom of the pan and curved upwards a tad. When I pulled up on it a bit, I was able to extract another half quart. If the extractor holds less than 7 or 8 liters, you'll need to stop halfway through and push out the oil into a suitable container.
-Step six, while the oil is being extracted, take your pick and oil filter housing and remove the old o-rings. Do not reuse them! A pick makes removal much easier. The filter should have three new oil rings. The larger o-rings are easy to slide on the threaded portion of the filter housing and into their respective grooves. The small o-ring can be a bit of a pain and it's easy to send it flying so be aware.
-Step seven, once the o-rings are installed, lube all of them with clean motor oil. Do not skip this step as it'll prevent the o-rings from tearing during the installation process.
-Step eight, slide the new filter onto the center guide rod. There wasn't any up or down indication arrow and looking at the internals, it can be installed either way.
-Step nine, once the filter is installed in the housing, you can screw it back into the filter housing base on the engine. I remove any/all rags or paper towels from around the base so none accidentally get caught and threaded into the filter housing base.
-Step 10, with all the engine oil syphoned out of the pan, use your funnel or valve cover fill adapter to add oil. Once I get down to the point where I'm about 2 liters shy, I start letting the oil sit for a bit and take measurements using the dip stick. Remember to keep that arrow pointed in the outboard direction.
-Step 11, once the oil is at the proper level, I button up the engine, reinstalling the oil filler plug on the valve cover. I then start the engine and wait for the oil pressure to settle. Shut the car off and wait 15 minutes.
-Step 12, while you're waiting, clean up any messes you made.
-Step 13, after the 15 minutes has expired, take a new oil level reading and add/subtract oil as needed.
That's it! You're done.
Here's what you should receive with your filter. If you do not have a filter and three o-rings, return it.
The red arrow indicates the location of the filter housing in the engine bay. It's fairly easy to see from above but just in case...
My last car had a similar filter housing setup in the engine bay and I always like to stuff rags or paper towels around the base in case of any spills.
Take your 27mm long socket, extension and ratchet and remove the filter housing. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen.
Once off, the filter can be pulled out of the housing easily.
A small pick is a good tool to remove the old o-rings.
The small o-ring goes at the top of the filter support rod (or whatever it's really called). It's small and a bit difficult to slide over the top. I can go flying as a result so be prepared for that scenario.
Photo of extraction tube down in the dipstick receptacle. The dipstick is on the driver's side of the engine bay.
The extraction hose running from the engine to the extractor. I just rest some of the line on the tire, it's not actually feeding from behind the wheel and out the wheel well. The Schwaben has a shut-off valve (red handle in photo) which is convenient when it's time to empty the extractor. That foot stool in the second photo makes everything that much easier.
Here's the oil fill cap on the driver's side valve cover.
I use paper towels to surround the area and catch any spills. I used a normal "thin" funnel which worked well and protruded down far enough that it was stable and did not move while I was pouring in oil. There are adapters on Amazon and elsewhere which screw into the valve cover. I'll probably look into one of those.
Tools you'll need!
-Oil extractor. I'm using a Schwaben vacuum extractor which utilizes a pump handle to either suction fluid in to the reservoir or pump it out. There are newer models available that use an air compressor. My extractor holds about six liters so I need to empty it out at least once during the fluid change since the Braptor takes 7 liters. This is a dual power one, either hand pump or air compressor Schwaben dual power extractor
-You may need an additional accessory pack of extractor hose. I believe the 3/16" hose works with the Raptor and it's included in the above kit. I'll measure and update this thread. The larger hoses don't fit.
-27mm socket, extension and ratchet. This is for the filter housing.
-small pick of your choice, makes getting the o-rings off the housing easier.
-Small step stool like this for getting up and over the engine. Not needed if you're 6'7" or over.
-Shop rags or paper towels
-Funnel or valve cover adapter funnel for the Braptor
-Underhood lighting (just makes finding everything easier).
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
-28Nm for the plastic filter housing.
You'll also need:
-Seven liters of your preferred oil, Ford specification WSS-M2C961-A1
-Ford Oil Filter, part number FL2062A. It should have two larger and one small o-ring included in the package.
I always change my oil after I've been driving. It'll go much more quickly with an extractor if the oil is very warm to hot as it flows more freely. I usually pull into the garage and let the car sit for 15-20 minutes.
-Step one, remove the valve cover oil filler plug which is located on the driver's side valve cover towards the front. Very easy to see.
-Step two, remove the oil filter housing. I stuff rags or paper towels around the base of the filter housing as well as on top of anything under the hood that might get oil dripped on it. The filter housing has a hex on top that takes a 27mm socket. I use a long socket, short extension and a ratchet.
Conversely, you can simply remove the fill plug on the valve cover and change the filter while you're extracting oil. There's likely no real vacuum hindering extraction but I do it this way just as a preventative measure.
-Step three, find the dipstick on the driver's side of the engine. Note the arrow points outboard. Remove the dipstick, wiping oil off as you remove it so as not to drip any into the engine bay.
-Step four, set up your extractor and use the smallest 3/16" hose extension. Insert it into the dipstick receptacle. You may find a bit of resistance but it'll slide in as long as the hose outside diameter isn't too large. Be sure to test your hose before starting the oil change process!
-Step five, with the valve on the extractor open and set for extraction, pump up the extractor to begin the suction process. I found that towards the end, it was necessary to pull up a bit on the hose as it likely hit the bottom of the pan and curved upwards a tad. When I pulled up on it a bit, I was able to extract another half quart. If the extractor holds less than 7 or 8 liters, you'll need to stop halfway through and push out the oil into a suitable container.
-Step six, while the oil is being extracted, take your pick and oil filter housing and remove the old o-rings. Do not reuse them! A pick makes removal much easier. The filter should have three new oil rings. The larger o-rings are easy to slide on the threaded portion of the filter housing and into their respective grooves. The small o-ring can be a bit of a pain and it's easy to send it flying so be aware.
-Step seven, once the o-rings are installed, lube all of them with clean motor oil. Do not skip this step as it'll prevent the o-rings from tearing during the installation process.
-Step eight, slide the new filter onto the center guide rod. There wasn't any up or down indication arrow and looking at the internals, it can be installed either way.
-Step nine, once the filter is installed in the housing, you can screw it back into the filter housing base on the engine. I remove any/all rags or paper towels from around the base so none accidentally get caught and threaded into the filter housing base.
-Step 10, with all the engine oil syphoned out of the pan, use your funnel or valve cover fill adapter to add oil. Once I get down to the point where I'm about 2 liters shy, I start letting the oil sit for a bit and take measurements using the dip stick. Remember to keep that arrow pointed in the outboard direction.
-Step 11, once the oil is at the proper level, I button up the engine, reinstalling the oil filler plug on the valve cover. I then start the engine and wait for the oil pressure to settle. Shut the car off and wait 15 minutes.
-Step 12, while you're waiting, clean up any messes you made.
-Step 13, after the 15 minutes has expired, take a new oil level reading and add/subtract oil as needed.
That's it! You're done.
Here's what you should receive with your filter. If you do not have a filter and three o-rings, return it.
The red arrow indicates the location of the filter housing in the engine bay. It's fairly easy to see from above but just in case...
My last car had a similar filter housing setup in the engine bay and I always like to stuff rags or paper towels around the base in case of any spills.
Take your 27mm long socket, extension and ratchet and remove the filter housing. Turn counter-clockwise to loosen.
Once off, the filter can be pulled out of the housing easily.
A small pick is a good tool to remove the old o-rings.
The small o-ring goes at the top of the filter support rod (or whatever it's really called). It's small and a bit difficult to slide over the top. I can go flying as a result so be prepared for that scenario.
Photo of extraction tube down in the dipstick receptacle. The dipstick is on the driver's side of the engine bay.
The extraction hose running from the engine to the extractor. I just rest some of the line on the tire, it's not actually feeding from behind the wheel and out the wheel well. The Schwaben has a shut-off valve (red handle in photo) which is convenient when it's time to empty the extractor. That foot stool in the second photo makes everything that much easier.
Here's the oil fill cap on the driver's side valve cover.
I use paper towels to surround the area and catch any spills. I used a normal "thin" funnel which worked well and protruded down far enough that it was stable and did not move while I was pouring in oil. There are adapters on Amazon and elsewhere which screw into the valve cover. I'll probably look into one of those.
Last edited:
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