Foutz Rear Shock Skids Installation Summary

JohnGalt

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May 25, 2022
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Sacramento/Tahoe
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2022 Bronco Raptor
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Ordered a set of shock skids about 5 weeks ago from Foutz Motorsports. Was told at the time it’d be a couple weeks before they shipped. So they were just a little longer than indicated, not an issue.

Skids arrived quickly once shipped and they were well packed, all hardware was present and quite stout as to be expected.

The installation instructions were pretty straightforward, there’s actually only two bolts to remove, slip on the skids and replace with two new bolts (provided).

the process requires you to jack up the rear of the truck (if you don't have a lift, I don’t) and remove the wheels. After chocking and setting jack stands of course. After that, remove the two shock bracket bolts (the OEM bolts are linked together). Of course there’s a lot of weight on those bolts so it takes a little finagling with the floor jack on the axle to work them loose without damaging. Takes a little patience but it was Easy enough.

Then you slip the skid over the bracket. That didn’t work on one side (the bracket made of double width 3/16” plates was about 1mm narrower than the bracket it was supposed to slip over), so I ended up putting everything back together (getting that double bolt assembly back in was a little time consuming) and called Foutz. They basically told me to lever the thing on with a pry bar use some “persuasion“ or I could return it.

Easy to say to lever it on, but working under a car by yourself trying to hold a somewhat heavy skid plate up and use a pry bar to try to ”slide” it in was never going to work. So after noodling on it for awhile I decided to cut a wedge from some Brazilian hardwood I have. I pounded that baby in with a vengeance and got it to deflect from 64mm opening to 73mm, then sprung back to 65.25mm. Turns out this is the perfect width to slip on, but also tight enough to stay in place once it’s positioned! This is important as you’re trying to align three bracket holes on each side that have large parts (shock and axle) moving around. Having that stay in position removed a lot of complexity in inserting the new bolts.

So if your test fit won’t work or is too tight, I’d just make a wedge with a very steep angle and give it some limited “encouragement“ checking with a dial caliper that you’re not taking it too far.

The floor jack was also critical to raise/lower the axle so it would align with the shock bracket. Finally a round bar or large screwdriver to fully align the three brackets was handy. Oh and I used some wood to lever things a bit too. most wood I’ve used on a car repair.

I don’t want this to sound overly hard, it really wasn’t. I was just a little put off by the poor initial fit, but after figuring that out with the wedge, it was just a matter of slowly working things into place to get the bolts out and new bolts in. But once on it fits great and looks like it will work great too. Quite pleased.

Next up is ordering Foutz Rear Lower Arm Bracket skids, IF I can clarify whether they’ll work with RCI Frame mount sliders as each of their brackets share some space along the frame. I think the passenger side with the gas tank skid is going to tuck in fine, but the drivers side may cause an issue as it appears the front of the skid bracket is not secured on that side. We’ll see.

the “gravy boat“
IMG_7993.jpeg

The difference in openings on two brackets
IMG_7992.jpeg

install photos
IMG_8003.jpeg

IMG_8004.jpeg



IMG_8006.jpeg

IMG_8007.jpeg
 
Ordered a set of shock skids about 5 weeks ago from Foutz Motorsports. Was told at the time it’d be a couple weeks before they shipped. So they were just a little longer than indicated, not an issue.

Skids arrived quickly once shipped and they were well packed, all hardware was present and quite stout as to be expected.

The installation instructions were pretty straightforward, there’s actually only two bolts to remove, slip on the skids and replace with two new bolts (provided).

the process requires you to jack up the rear of the truck (if you don't have a lift, I don’t) and remove the wheels. After chocking and setting jack stands of course. After that, remove the two shock bracket bolts (the OEM bolts are linked together). Of course there’s a lot of weight on those bolts so it takes a little finagling with the floor jack on the axle to work them loose without damaging. Takes a little patience but it was Easy enough.

Then you slip the skid over the bracket. That didn’t work on one side (the bracket made of double width 3/16” plates was about 1mm narrower than the bracket it was supposed to slip over), so I ended up putting everything back together (getting that double bolt assembly back in was a little time consuming) and called Foutz. They basically told me to lever the thing on with a pry bar use some “persuasion“ or I could return it.

Easy to say to lever it on, but working under a car by yourself trying to hold a somewhat heavy skid plate up and use a pry bar to try to ”slide” it in was never going to work. So after noodling on it for awhile I decided to cut a wedge from some Brazilian hardwood I have. I pounded that baby in with a vengeance and got it to deflect from 64mm opening to 73mm, then sprung back to 65.25mm. Turns out this is the perfect width to slip on, but also tight enough to stay in place once it’s positioned! This is important as you’re trying to align three bracket holes on each side that have large parts (shock and axle) moving around. Having that stay in position removed a lot of complexity in inserting the new bolts.

So if your test fit won’t work or is too tight, I’d just make a wedge with a very steep angle and give it some limited “encouragement“ checking with a dial caliper that you’re not taking it too far.

The floor jack was also critical to raise/lower the axle so it would align with the shock bracket. Finally a round bar or large screwdriver to fully align the three brackets was handy. Oh and I used some wood to lever things a bit too. most wood I’ve used on a car repair.

I don’t want this to sound overly hard, it really wasn’t. I was just a little put off by the poor initial fit, but after figuring that out with the wedge, it was just a matter of slowly working things into place to get the bolts out and new bolts in. But once on it fits great and looks like it will work great too. Quite pleased.

Next up is ordering Foutz Rear Lower Arm Bracket skids, IF I can clarify whether they’ll work with RCI Frame mount sliders as each of their brackets share some space along the frame. I think the passenger side with the gas tank skid is going to tuck in fine, but the drivers side may cause an issue as it appears the front of the skid bracket is not secured on that side. We’ll see.

the “gravy boat“
View attachment 10168
The difference in openings on two brackets
View attachment 10163
install photosView attachment 10164
View attachment 10165


View attachment 10166
View attachment 10167
Good Job, thanks to your ingenuity, and it sounds like a little stress relieving (pounding the wooden wedge) you didn't anticipate. The skids look very stought as expected from FMI.
Different subject, is that a tear in the lower drivers side shock boot?
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #3
It’s a tear for sure, I just noticed today. I had the Passenger rear shock replaced under warranty, now I guess I’ll be inquiring about this. There Seems to something inherently wrong with the boot design / travel distance. They seem to just want to bunch up in the bottom of the spring, and when they bunch they’ll get caught and torn.

I’ve definitely been in full droop situation quite a few times off jumps, but that’s what these were made for right? That said, I’m not sure the boot is even necessary.
 
Ordered a set of shock skids about 5 weeks ago from Foutz Motorsports. Was told at the time it’d be a couple weeks before they shipped. So they were just a little longer than indicated, not an issue.

Skids arrived quickly once shipped and they were well packed, all hardware was present and quite stout as to be expected.

The installation instructions were pretty straightforward, there’s actually only two bolts to remove, slip on the skids and replace with two new bolts (provided).

the process requires you to jack up the rear of the truck (if you don't have a lift, I don’t) and remove the wheels. After chocking and setting jack stands of course. After that, remove the two shock bracket bolts (the OEM bolts are linked together). Of course there’s a lot of weight on those bolts so it takes a little finagling with the floor jack on the axle to work them loose without damaging. Takes a little patience but it was Easy enough.

Then you slip the skid over the bracket. That didn’t work on one side (the bracket made of double width 3/16” plates was about 1mm narrower than the bracket it was supposed to slip over), so I ended up putting everything back together (getting that double bolt assembly back in was a little time consuming) and called Foutz. They basically told me to lever the thing on with a pry bar use some “persuasion“ or I could return it.

Easy to say to lever it on, but working under a car by yourself trying to hold a somewhat heavy skid plate up and use a pry bar to try to ”slide” it in was never going to work. So after noodling on it for awhile I decided to cut a wedge from some Brazilian hardwood I have. I pounded that baby in with a vengeance and got it to deflect from 64mm opening to 73mm, then sprung back to 65.25mm. Turns out this is the perfect width to slip on, but also tight enough to stay in place once it’s positioned! This is important as you’re trying to align three bracket holes on each side that have large parts (shock and axle) moving around. Having that stay in position removed a lot of complexity in inserting the new bolts.

So if your test fit won’t work or is too tight, I’d just make a wedge with a very steep angle and give it some limited “encouragement“ checking with a dial caliper that you’re not taking it too far.

The floor jack was also critical to raise/lower the axle so it would align with the shock bracket. Finally a round bar or large screwdriver to fully align the three brackets was handy. Oh and I used some wood to lever things a bit too. most wood I’ve used on a car repair.

I don’t want this to sound overly hard, it really wasn’t. I was just a little put off by the poor initial fit, but after figuring that out with the wedge, it was just a matter of slowly working things into place to get the bolts out and new bolts in. But once on it fits great and looks like it will work great too. Quite pleased.

Next up is ordering Foutz Rear Lower Arm Bracket skids, IF I can clarify whether they’ll work with RCI Frame mount sliders as each of their brackets share some space along the frame. I think the passenger side with the gas tank skid is going to tuck in fine, but the drivers side may cause an issue as it appears the front of the skid bracket is not secured on that side. We’ll see.

the “gravy boat“
View attachment 10168
The difference in openings on two brackets
View attachment 10163
install photosView attachment 10164
View attachment 10165


View attachment 10166
View attachment 10167
Wow, thanks so much for the helpful info & pics! I just placed an order for these last night and i cant wait to install them. I will for sure be referencing to this post - your insight is much appreciated

https://www.foutzmotorsports.com/co...oducts/2022-bronco-raptor-rear-shock-skid-kit
 
Let us know what other accessories you guys would like to see for the Bronco Raptor. We have a bunch of stuff in the works that we will roll out over the next month or so but always want to hear what you guys are looking for.
these shock guards were a bit of an engineering challenge due to the lower shock mount design but I think they turned out pretty good.
 
Ordered a set of shock skids about 5 weeks ago from Foutz Motorsports. Was told at the time it’d be a couple weeks before they shipped. So they were just a little longer than indicated, not an issue.

Skids arrived quickly once shipped and they were well packed, all hardware was present and quite stout as to be expected.

The installation instructions were pretty straightforward, there’s actually only two bolts to remove, slip on the skids and replace with two new bolts (provided).

the process requires you to jack up the rear of the truck (if you don't have a lift, I don’t) and remove the wheels. After chocking and setting jack stands of course. After that, remove the two shock bracket bolts (the OEM bolts are linked together). Of course there’s a lot of weight on those bolts so it takes a little finagling with the floor jack on the axle to work them loose without damaging. Takes a little patience but it was Easy enough.

Then you slip the skid over the bracket. That didn’t work on one side (the bracket made of double width 3/16” plates was about 1mm narrower than the bracket it was supposed to slip over), so I ended up putting everything back together (getting that double bolt assembly back in was a little time consuming) and called Foutz. They basically told me to lever the thing on with a pry bar use some “persuasion“ or I could return it.

Easy to say to lever it on, but working under a car by yourself trying to hold a somewhat heavy skid plate up and use a pry bar to try to ”slide” it in was never going to work. So after noodling on it for awhile I decided to cut a wedge from some Brazilian hardwood I have. I pounded that baby in with a vengeance and got it to deflect from 64mm opening to 73mm, then sprung back to 65.25mm. Turns out this is the perfect width to slip on, but also tight enough to stay in place once it’s positioned! This is important as you’re trying to align three bracket holes on each side that have large parts (shock and axle) moving around. Having that stay in position removed a lot of complexity in inserting the new bolts.

So if your test fit won’t work or is too tight, I’d just make a wedge with a very steep angle and give it some limited “encouragement“ checking with a dial caliper that you’re not taking it too far.

The floor jack was also critical to raise/lower the axle so it would align with the shock bracket. Finally a round bar or large screwdriver to fully align the three brackets was handy. Oh and I used some wood to lever things a bit too. most wood I’ve used on a car repair.

I don’t want this to sound overly hard, it really wasn’t. I was just a little put off by the poor initial fit, but after figuring that out with the wedge, it was just a matter of slowly working things into place to get the bolts out and new bolts in. But once on it fits great and looks like it will work great too. Quite pleased.

Next up is ordering Foutz Rear Lower Arm Bracket skids, IF I can clarify whether they’ll work with RCI Frame mount sliders as each of their brackets share some space along the frame. I think the passenger side with the gas tank skid is going to tuck in fine, but the drivers side may cause an issue as it appears the front of the skid bracket is not secured on that side. We’ll see.

the “gravy boat“
View attachment 10168
The difference in openings on two brackets
View attachment 10163
install photosView attachment 10164
View attachment 10165


View attachment 10166
View attachment 10167
I received my shock skids over Christmas I have not attempted install yet but want to get them on before United by Bronco the end of February. Thanks for the install pics and write up. My questions is when the jack has the right amount of force being put on axle and you can get the factory bolts out will it hold it at that point for installing new bolts? I am afraid it will sag and new ones will be hard to install? I hope my question makes sense?
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #7
I received my shock skids over Christmas I have not attempted install yet but want to get them on before United by Bronco the end of February. Thanks for the install pics and write up. My questions is when the jack has the right amount of force being put on axle and you can get the factory bolts out will it hold it at that point for installing new bolts? I am afraid it will sag and new ones will be hard to install? I hope my question makes sense?
It’s been awhile so my memory is fuzzy, but if things move a little just adjust the jack. It wasn’t pretty easy to work the bolt in. As I stated, it wasn’t a tough project, but it helped. A second pair of hands would help too.
 
It’s been awhile so my memory is fuzzy, but if things move a little just adjust the jack. It wasn’t pretty easy to work the bolt in. As I stated, it wasn’t a tough project, but it helped. A second pair of hands would help too.
I received my shock skids over Christmas I have not attempted install yet but want to get them on before United by Bronco the end of February. Thanks for the install pics and write up. My questions is when the jack has the right amount of force being put on axle and you can get the factory bolts out will it hold it at that point for installing new bolts? I am afraid it will sag and new ones will be hard to install? I hope my question makes sense?
OK I did my install yesterday. I had help from my nephew we had one heck of a time getting the bolts out on the first side we tried. We probably messed with it for over an hour. After about an hour of messing with no luck I moved the jack to the frame just in front of the rear drivers side tire. I jacked up very high and with tire off we let the shock drop to its full droop. The bolts just slide out with no pressure on them. We then moved to passenger side and had this one installed in 10 minutes.

I had no instructions with shock skids and I had read all I could find online about install. I don't believe one person or Foutz said to let the shock fully droop when installing. This installation is super easy if someone would have stated this.

Foutz please include instructions with this tip!
 
OK I did my install yesterday. I had help from my nephew we had one heck of a time getting the bolts out on the first side we tried. We probably messed with it for over an hour. After about an hour of messing with no luck I moved the jack to the frame just in front of the rear drivers side tire. I jacked up very high and with tire off we let the shock drop to its full droop. The bolts just slide out with no pressure on them. We then moved to passenger side and had this one installed in 10 minutes.

I had no instructions with shock skids and I had read all I could find online about install. I don't believe one person or Foutz said to let the shock fully droop when installing. This installation is super easy if someone would have stated this.

Foutz please include instructions with this tip!
Yup we will update the install guide. Thanks. We appreciate the feedback.
 
Yup we will update the install guide. Thanks. We appreciate the feedback.
Thanks and I love the shock skids! That first hour I was cussing and wanting to send them back. I am 62 laying on cold concrete in my shop not fun.

Do you agree with my statement by letting that shock droop all the way? It was trial and error for us but once we did this we could pull factory bolts out with 2 fingers very easy.

I think just a HELPFUL INSTALL TIP: on your website; at time purchase I think people would remember to try this.

Thanks again and your products look great!

Do you do any Bronco events that you install lift collars? I hope to do this down the road.
 
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I am glad I waited to install them. I have the shock skids and the differential skid. On Saturday, I had my BRaptor on jack stands and was about to start. I thought about it and decided to do a bit more research before taking the tire off. I'm very glad I did! I'll post up some pics when I am finished.

Once again, the collective experience here is exceptional!
 
I am glad I waited to install them. I have the shock skids and the differential skid. On Saturday, I had my BRaptor on jack stands and was about to start. I thought about it and decided to do a bit more research before taking the tire off. I'm very glad I did! I'll post up some pics when I am finished.

Once again, the collective experience here is exceptional!
I wish I took some pictures. Our plan was not to take tire off but I highly recommend you do. We jacked on frame in front of tire and let shock droop and bolts came out with 2 fingers they almost fell out. Skids are very nice too!

We did use high torque Milwaukee to remove bolts so we did not use hand tools.
 
Alright - I installed the shock skids yesterday afternoon. Here's the easiest way to do it:

1 - Chock the front tires. Do not continue until this is done. I used 4x4 blocks.

2 - Jack the rear as high as your jack will go. Place Jack stands just in front of the first hanger on the chassis rails. Most Jack stands aren't tall enough. I went to Home Depot and had them cut a 4x4x10’ at 15” (8 pieces). I stacked enough to support the jack stand. I've done this in the past with semi trucks. It works.

3 - Remove both rear wheels.

4 - Slowly lower the rear axle to full extension. Note: if you didn't chock the front tires, this is where you'll see the jack stands start to tilt and you'll question life's decisions. Make sure your hydraulic jack is able to move as needed so this doesn't happen. Ask me how I know.

5 - Remove the 2 nuts on each shock that connects them to the axle.

6 - Removing the 2 bolts on each side simply requires you to gently lift the axle with one hand while hand pulling the bolts out. It is that easy.

7 - Slide the shock skids into place. No prying or hammering needed.

8 - Insert the new lower bolt first with the head towards the differential and the nut will go on the wheel side of the skid (opposite installation from the stock bolts). Tilt the shock mount by hand to insert the upper bolt.

9 - Tighten the bolts. I used a ½” air impact gun. Because the supplied nuts are actually lock nuts, torque specs aren't important as the nut will remain regardless of torque. Get them snug.

10 - Reinstall the wheels and grin.

1000002927.jpg
 
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