🛠️ Member Build Ape's 2023 Practical Build

Member Build

Ape Factory

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Location
San Antonio
Current Ride
Bronco Raptor
(Work in progress as I get all the mods and info up)

I'll start right off by saying that this may be the least "sexy" build ever chronicled. No big turbos or tuning, no real engine or transmission mods to speak of and probably not even an exhaust or intake. Instead, this'll be a practical list of items I've aded to my 2023 Bronco Raptor that aren't going to cause major issues with the original or extended warranty on the vehicle.

Most of the mods are for convenience and functionality with an eye on value as opposed to throwing large wads of cash at it. And know this is really, really hard as I'm a modaholic. I mean I have it bad. But I'm trying and occasionally I may indulge a bit.

First, meet Larry. Larry is a 2023 Cactus Gray I picked up used with 13K miles from my local Ford dealer. I literally stumbled on Larry just after being traded in and before being cleaned up and presented for sale. I purchased Larry on 12/31/24 with a Ford Blue certification despite having a mold in top that had one crack and not having the rear window glass recall done. And Larry came with an aftermarket blowoff valve, Rockslide Engineering Step Sliders and a number of smaller convenience mods throughout. I admittedly scored despite the crack in the MIC and I went in eyes wide open.

Larry, relatively stock and Jolene, left, not so much.
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My first mod was black lugs and locks. I didn't go super expensive and just went with a high strength steel lugs. Make sure they're 14mm x 1.50 RH thread. Purchased mine here: https://www.cjponyparts.com/acorn-lug-nut-kit-bronco-raptor/p/WHLLN135/ along with the Ford Performance locking lugs: https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...l-lug-nuts-set-of-5-bronco-raptor/p/M1A043A5/. The finish, thus far, seems to be holding up just fine. We'll see after a few tire rotations.

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Next on the list, I started looking at the stereo and speakers. I decided to do the three dash speakers as well as the rear pods. For the rears, I wanted to upgrade them to a 6.5" coax. As a musician, I always prefer my amp and my drummer behind me. Never liked stage monitors so I wanted more oomph from the rear. My speaker choice were Hertz Cento CX series which are reasonably affordable and had good reviews from those who've installed them in the past.

I would encourage you to shop around for these as they can sometimes be found for a good bit less on eBay or occasionally Amazon. Places like Crutchfield will be a good bit more expensive.

For the front three speakers, it's the Hertz Cento CX100: https://hertz-audio.com/product/cx-100/

For the rear pod speakers, it's the Hertz Cento CX165 coax: https://hertz-audio.com/product/cx-165/

In addition to the front speakers, you'll also need three Metro 72-5603 speaker harnesses for the three front speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQT36MN7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

For the rears, you'll need two items to get the 6.5" speakers to work. First, you'll need new pods. You'll be tempted to buy the Mabett's off of Amazon but don't as they do not fit the BRaptor. Instead you'll need the MTI 3-D printed speaker pods for the Bronco Raptor found here: https://www.mtiacoustics.net/ford.html#!/2021-Ford-Bronco-Rear-Speaker-Pods/p/441935695

Know these are made to order so they generally ship out in a week or two. Just don't expect them the next day. They're pricey but it's also the only option.

In addition to the new pods, you'll need Metra 72-6514 speaker harnesses which make installation plug and play, no wire cutting. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WTEVM?ref_=pe_125775000_1044873430_t_fed_asin_title&th=1

The tweeters rotate on all of them so you're able to adjust their aim. The CX100's fit under the Braptor's speaker covers just fine. There are enough installation videos and write-ups so I'm not going to duplicate them here but the dash speakers are fairly straightforward and easy.

The rears, with the pods, almost necessitate removing the cargo area top. I take that back, it's mandatory if you want to stay sane. The pilot holes aren't drilled in the right place so it's impossible to get the screws in.

They come in a bed liner-like coating that's fairly rough and sturdy. I'm not super fond of the finish but it isn't the worst. I'm sure it's quite durable but it's not as if those pods are going to be taking hits given their location.

For the mounting process, I stared with the bottom, long bolt and then swung the pods upwards, reconnecting the wires in the process.
I then went to install the two shorter screws up top and could not, for the life of me, get them started. I then tried the included small screws and those wouldn't work either. I even removed the speaker and tried going in from the inside of the pod. But due to the holes not aligning, it was a no go. Seriously frustrating given the cost.

So if you're planning on installing these, it's top off or not at all. Just a heads up.
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Not all grille covers will fit with the MTI pods. The Hertz covers did. They do NOT come with the 6.5" speakers and need to be purchased separately. Bezos link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XLJ3SY2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

With the top off, it's super easy. Drill new pilot holes and screw everything into place.
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I found the easiest way to install these is (obviously roof off) is to start with the bottom bolt, rotate the pod so it's facing almost down. This gives you a bit more room to get an extension with the Torx bit in to tighten the bolt. Rotate it up and use the OEM screws with a power drill/philips bit. Push up on the pod while you press down on the bolt/drill. Screw it in slowly so it'll form a good groove and the threads will get a good purchase and keep you from stripping it.

Another issue I have with them is the opening to run the wires through. It's in the wrong spot. Theoretically, one could lengthen the OEM harness adapters but why would any one really want to do that? As is, the opening doesn't give enough length to stash the plug out of eyesight with the top off. Yet there's a large gap on the other side where it would have stowed nicely if the access hole had been in a different location.

Pics installed...
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I will say they provided a lot more oomph and low end. Most will tell you the dash speakers make the largest improvement and I agree but closely followed by the rear pods. Given the cost, it is, IMO, a worthwhile upgrade. And at the time I was thinking of going with the Mobridge amp/dsp but more on that later.

Truth be told, there were a number of other mods I did before the speakers but I'm going to continue with the sound system for continuity. After upgrading the three dash and rear pod speakers, I decided to do the kick panel speakers with the same Cento CX165's found in the rear pods. Most simply go with a woofer and not a coax and that is not a bad option. I noticed very little difference with this upgrade but again, I was working towards the Mobridge which I knew would take advantage of the coax in the kick panel location.

With that said, you'll need adapter rings to install the Cento CX165 speakers and I'd imagine, most other 6.5" speakers. I started out with the Metra 82-5605 adapters. These require cutting off the tabs that poke inward. Unfortunately, with the coax speakers, the tweeter is too tall and you're unable to use the stock Bronco speaker grille.

The solution is the Sounds Good Stereo speaker adapters which aren't as tall and provide a perfect fit. Link: https://soundsgoodstereo.com/produc...w-request&utm_medium=email&utm_source=judgeme

The height difference is just enough that it fits.
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If you want to use the Hertz Cento C 165L woofer, 6.5", you can probably get away with the Manet adapter. https://hertz-audio.com/product/c-165-l/

I do have the 8" Hertz Cento CS200 S4 subwoofer but I haven't installed it yet.

Now I know what you're thinking. There's a photo of your Bronco with the top off so you must have skipped a mod. I did. I actually had to wait for and install a roof hoist before I could install the pods. Unfortunately I have 16ft. ceilings in my garage, I'm afraid of heights and I'm recovering from a bi-lateral shoulder injury (both shoulders!).

None the less, I managed to screw in a few 2x6x8's into the ceiling after spending way too much time on a tall ladder (for me). I used this kit which is fairly affordable and I can one-hand raise/lower the rear portion of the top while using my other hand to guide it onto the bronco. Super easy and I didn't have to try to hold a 30 pound motor up against the ceiling while trying to secure it to the studs.

I used the front camera and the dotted side lines on the screen to run the Bronco parallel with the wall and then measured. This allowed me to place the boards in just the right spot on the ceiling and it makes driving the Bronco into the garage, properly aligned, a breeze. I dropped the lines in the appropriate location and overall it wasn't difficult to install. At this point, I was convinced the Bronco was becoming a lifestyle choice.
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I know most back the bronco in and have the hoist forward of where the garage door stops. Because of my ceiling height, I chose to do it pulling forward. The process for getting the tools and straps out of the back necessitates doing so with the garage door open, then closing it for top removal. I only need to get it as high as the vertical tracks but it'll go much higher. In the end, it turned out to be a fortuitous choice due to me wanting a roof rack and clearance issues. More on that later.

Originally I bought larger, heavy duty straps to lift the roof but they proved to be too long. I went back to the included straps which are adjustable and have a buckle to release the strap ends. They're proving to be just fine. To further facilitate ease of hookup/removal, I use carabiners on the end so it's a simple clip and go affair.

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Next up was the Alien Sunshade. I did quite a bit of research before settling. What drew me in was the ease of installation, ability to remove and install the top, the fact it worked with the Braptor and no velcro/glue to melt in the hot Texas sun. After using it for most of the spring, I'm very happy with the purchase. Yes, there's a gap in between the top of the windshield and the start of the mesh but it stays put, is pretty much noise free and does everything I need it to do. And it's half the price of the more expensive brand that uses velcro. I don't have a lot of great photos but with no mods, it works with the Raptor's cross bar. Purchased off of Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKJ81D1D?ref_=pe_125775000_1044873430_fed_asin_title

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I added a lot of little convenience/commuting mods along with stuff to keep the interior in good shape and protected from my dogs. Amazon gets the nod on most of this stuff.
I have one that likes to "surf" with the top off and stand on the center console. I strap him in with a harness/metal leash so he's safe. So a center console protector was a no-brainer.
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The back of the rear seats would need protecting too so I purchased a set made by Maxzina which I believe were the least expensive I could find at the time and they 100% work as designed.
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Comes in a three piece set and they simply stick on with velcro.

I did buy a screen protector. No photo because it's clear. This one came as a two pack and again, wasn't the most expensive one out there and zero complaints. Screen works like it should.
 
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I live and die by the radar detector. I've definitely slowed down due to moving from a sports car to the Braptor but I still like to know when I'm being zapped by a radar gun. I use the dash accessory mount and what is essentially a phone holder to position the detector and a USB to RJ11 power cord to run it off one of the USB ports on top of the dash. I leave it plugged in when I park and it seems to power down after a bit.
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This is the power cord I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CL8WHYTN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Here's the clamp for the radar detector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5SV81JS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I'll be replacing the Escort with a Valentine One here soon. I've had the Escort for some time and while it does still work, the screen is no longer visible in bright daylight and only the forward direction indicator error works. Been a pretty typical experience with Escort. Their stuff never really lasts or you have to send it in for service every few years and loose it for six weeks.

A bunch more cheap mods. These are basically commuter/passenger convenience mods for holding stuff whether it be drinks, sunglasses or whatever.

Front door pockets replace the nets.
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I thought these would be a bit more handy than they are but I don't use them. Plus the included double-sided tape doesn't really stick. They stay put for the most part.
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I rarely have rear passengers with two legs but why not. Made by Mabett. It's removable and a bit finicky to get locked in place. Also, the rear seat won't fold all the way down with it in place so I find myself removing it often. If you simply put it on the passenger seat floor, the seat will collapse fully.
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Lighting! This was probably the second or third mod I did. The Bronco's interior is dark and the lights are wholly inadequate especially at this price point/day and age. The rear dome light has threel LED banks so you get light directed forward down and into the cargo area. The installation is super easy and I did it at the same time as the side dome lights. Combined, they provide a fairly massive increase in lumens inside the cabin.
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The Mabett side dome lights took a bit more effort to install but they plug in at the rear dome light so there's no cutting/splicing and the installation is far easier than some other, more expensive kits out there.
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Once I had the hoist in place and I was able to remove the top completely, I had to be forced to put it back on. As such, I knew I'd need a vault of some sort. After a bit of research, I settled on the Tuffy vault. It has the widest opening overall. Installation was straightforward and I went with the combo version as I didn't want another key. I'll post a link to where I purchased it from but know these guys said it was in stock but I waited two weeks before it shipped. https://ok4wd.com/console-safe-ford-bronco-3-digit-combo-2021-2024/
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For rear visibility issues and to record stupid drivers doing stupid things, I installed a digital rear view mirror from Wolfbox. I ordered several additional parts related to the installation as I wasn't sure if I was going to run the rear camera inside or outside the cabin or whether I'd use a fusebox link to power it or use mirror power.
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In the end, I chose to mount the rear camera inside the cabin mostly so it'd stay usable in bad weather. The OEM rearview camera is worthless in the rain. I do lose nighttime visibility in terms of knowing exactly what's behind me but you can clearly see there's a car there due to their lights so it's a non-issue.

I have the G900 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DD78Y3L5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

In addition to the basic kit, you'll need the following:
-Wolfbox mirror bracket. This'll allow you to remove the OEM mirror and completely replace it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN31MBZP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-Dongar dash cam power adapter. This'll allow the use of the OEM rearview mirror plug to power the dash cam. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088P4VFQ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-Right angle USB cord makes everything a bit tidier. This'll go from the Dongar adapter to the Wolfbox mirror: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092KF36T6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

-Mount for the rear camera (for inside the cabin): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWRTH5W7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-If you do want to mount the rear cam outside the vehicle, you'll want a longer wiring harness. Otherwise the included harness is long enough. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082RZNJFY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-If you want to run power from the fuse box, you'll want this wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X9F8GMT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
The harness will also power the camera 24/7 so you can use "sentry" mode and it'll record if there are loud noises, it senses motion, etc...

Overall I like the improved rear visibility but I do have some issues with it. First, it's not the same perspective as a normal rearview mirror. It's wider. I also need reading glasses so while I can see cars just fine, I can't always tell the make and model. With a normal rearview, I can spot a cop 400 yards back. Not so much with the LED mirror. It does record front and rear on a loop so I'll have video evidence if another driver does something stupid which is the main reason I have it. Oh and it acts as a normal mirror if you turn the power off.

Ok let's do some fun stuff!

I decided to change the fluids in the front and rear differential as well as the transfer case out of an abundance of precaution. I tend to do "performance" maintenance intervals on my vehicles. Knowing I'd be changing the fluids more often, I decided to purchase the Ford Performance rear differential cover since it has a built-in drain. I didn't want to remove the entire cover each time I changed the fluid so I thought this'll be a great mod!

Guess what. The OEM rear differential has a built-in drain that's visible from directly below. It's in the housing itself and not the cover. So...if you don't want the extra strength/rigidity of the nodular iron Ford Performance cover, no need to replace it. I did a full writeup of the installation here:
https://www.broncoraptor.com/thread...nsfer-case-fluid-swap-how-to.2312/#post-20080

At least it looks sexy...
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Lights! I spent way too much time researching lights and ultimately I stumbled across a deal for a new, uninstalled light bar as well as a new roof rack from another Bronco owner that I could not pass up. Ultimately, for me, it was the right choice so I sort of lucked out. .

Initially I tried an inexpensive bumper light that ended up not fitting despite being "made" for the Bronco with the modular bumper. After that experience and thinking about the whole cooling issue, I decided to to with a roof-mount setup despite the potential for noise and possible light spill/flaring on the windshield.

I came across a deal which included the Rigid 40" SR Pro "Midnight" light bar as well as the JCR full rack with light bar cutout.
Link to the light bar: https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-srs-pro-40-mdnt-940214blk.html

I had been looking at the JCR for a couple of reasons including the ability to run a half rack setup and remove the front and passenger roof panels with it in place. I'm running the half rack configuration during the cooler months and the full rack during the summer when it's too hot to consider taking the top off.

For the half rack configuration, I ordered the Rigid light bar roof mount for the half rack configuration. It comes with a sound dampener which eliminates whistling, along with the brackets themselves and the mounting hardware.

The "midnight" editions have black PCB's so with the full rack configuration, it integrates really well if you like the sleeker look.

Half rack configuration:
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I'm going to come back to the full rack later as I don't have a good photo of the full rack/light setup. It's currently in that configuration so soon!

Moving on, I wanted pillar lights and did a lot of research ad nauseam and it came down to the KR Flex Era 3's or the Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro's as I thought both offered the most bang for the buck.

Both have amber "backlighting" and both can be modified at a later date to a different beam pattern. The KC's were easier to adjust but ultimately I got pushed towards the Diode Dynamics by a vendor. At the time, Diode Dynamics was also having issues with delivering products which didn't sit well. The pro's were back ordered with no arrival date but the SS3 Max's came in stock and I paid a bit more and snagged a set. I chose the driving combo lenses but may go flood. https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss3-sae-white-max-led-pod-pair.html

For mounts, I'd asked the vendor to nix the KR mounts but they arrived with my new lights anyway and I of course got charged for them. Anyway...I decided to do the Bad Ass mounts and I couldn't be happier with them. I've heard they'll "vibrate" but I've not experienced that. They've been rock solid and I like the aiming flexibility. In addition to the above, I purchased smoked lenses for the DD pillar lights to protect them day in and day out when not in use. The highways in my neck of the woods can be brutal in terms of debris. I also installed anti-theft hardware on everything, the mounts, the lights, all of it. Ultimately if someone wants something they'll get it but this'll deter the opportunist or at least slow them down dramatically.

Smoke translucent covers: https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss3-l...082&gbraid=0AAAAADEIEYhoRcPYlGLiIFXBZ9eE-SSIR
Security hardware for DD SS3's : https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss3-s...zT45-Fm-b-zLEJ_ppj38fNWpZmy7EYKEg1Oth8s51QRd8
Security hardware for the Bad Ass mounts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6HMZ6HY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
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Back to the JCR rack. Here's the full rack installed. I do believe I'm going to purchase purchased their black hardware kit to replace the uncoated stainless screws. I also purchased the side racks which I just leave installed as they're a pain to re-install without complete disassembly. They're quite heavy and honestly, they should be made out of aluminum instead of steel. They'd still be more than strong enough to hold whatever is needed.
JCR Full Rack: https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/BR6RK-HT-F.html
JCR Half Rack: https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/BR6RK-S.html
JCR Side Racks: https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/JSAP.html
Note: The full rack can be run in half rack mode but doesn't come with the wind deflector. Honestly, unless you like the look with the deflector installed, it's not needed from a noise perspective.
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When the front half of the full rack isn't in use, I hang it from the ceiling with another manual pulley system. I can hang both the cargo roof and front half of the rack at the same time. My garage ceiling looks like Circ du Soleil at times.
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With the full rack installed, I'm using the integrated light bar brackets to house the Rigid SRS Pro 40" Midnight light bar. https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-srs-pro-40-mdnt-940214blk.html. The PCB boards are black and the reflectors are also like a black chrome so it integrates into the roof rack and doesn't protrude at all. Slightly stealthier look that I think I prefer.

For mounting the Rigid light bar by itself, without the half rack, you'll want their kit. True, you can likely use any mount for a 40" light bar but Rigid includes harmonic dampers which eliminate whistling noise. Without them, you'll get a noticeable whistle. I basically go back and forth between the rack mount and the Rigid mounting brackets depending on how I am running the JCR top rack (or the roof is off altogether.)

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To take advantage of the side racks, I've gone with the Rotopax system. Traction boards were relatively cheap variations off of Amazon but they're green (I swear, I know they look like they're dark gray) and have a built-in jack pad. With the traction boards on the roof rack, entry and exit into the garage is verboten. Ask me how I know.
Rotopax
Traction boards: Traction Boards
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I might as well mention the JCR bull bar which I installed not too long ago. I specifically went for the JCR for a couple of reasons. While I did want a bit more protection out front I didn't want it to be so large it dominated the front end and I also wanted the three running lights to be visible, no front camera blockage or relocation. If the included bolts are used, it's a simple half hour installation and nothing needs to be removed. If you choose to reuse the OEM bolts, well, godspeed to you.
JCR Bull Bar

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Shot all this stuff in about 20 minutes on my way home from the day job last night. I drive by this area with lots of wall art and decided to stop on a whim. All shot on an iPhone and the quality on the latest cameras has greatly improved. I normally shoot with big cameras but didn't have any with me. Me more than a few years ago, Air Force One, a 400/2.8 600 f/4 and probably 40 pounds lighter, LOL.
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Back to the JCR bull bar, few more photos.
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Where'd I leave off...a few simple mods that clean things up and make certain tasks easier.

Stickerfab makes a number of interesting products and I've installed two thus far. First up, black vinyl overlays which cover up the warning labels on the visors. Really simple mod that cleans things up.
Visor warning overlays

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Second is the ledge protection. I opted for the "carbon look" and we'll see how these hold up after a summer with the top on (aka Texas winter). Always thought they needed something and at the time I wasn't aware of the hard plastic ledge covers available. If they don't last, I'll be switching over. They fit ok but the cut isn't perfect so installation is somewhat of a compromise but they do look decent and they feel durable. Ledge protection

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S

Since they're in the above photo, might as well touch on the Rockworkx hard top thumb screws. I always appreciate tool-less features and I put these to good use when it's not 120 degrees out. Makes top removal very easy. Rockworkx Thumb Screws

I did not get the 12-piece so I didn't have thumb screws for the upper bolts that secure the rear cargo area top to the roof rails. I bought two el-cheapo knockoffs from Bezos and the M8 bolts are too long to really work. I shortened them and they now work perfectly. Personally, if you don't have any of the Rockworkx hardware, just order the whole kit as they make good stuff. My substitute: Roof thumb screws
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One of my major pet peeves when I first bought the Raptor and took the top off was the rear seatbelts flapping around. It didn't always work to buckle them and it was a compromise. My work-around was to buy a bunch of magnets designed to secure a handgun to whatever. Generally there are magnets which'll hold 35 pounds or 55 pounds. There are tons of shapes to choose from on Amazon. So far they work well but we'll see once the top comes off for longer trips. It's a nice, clean solution and the double-sided tape on mine seems pretty strong and it holds the buckles securely. I like this method better as you just pull and the buckle releases instead of a complicated slip it out of a complicated clip. They're small enough to be mostly hidden by the buckle/belt itself.
Belt Buckle Magnets
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Next up, the Ford tailgate table. Bought this used but new in box for a great price. Couldn't pass it up. I think there are likely better (and far more expensive) designs out there but it works. Just measure twice and drill once :)
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The last part of my audio equation was the addition of a single voice coil 8" subwoofer from Hertz and a Mobridge amplifier. The 8" sub has plenty of punch for the type of music I listen to and just makes the entire system sound better. I do feel the source material and original recording need to be decent to really come alive but it's leagues better than the stock setup. It's plug and play with no cutting but it does require the removal of the cargo area plastics (both sides) but it isn't a hard installation. Mobridge Amplifier. Hertz Cento CS200 S4
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Because it's a DSP and has an interface program for your laptop, there's a USB port on the Mobridge to interface between it and your laptop. Instead of just leaving a USB cord sticking up, I went with a pass-through USB 3.0 connector which necessitated drilling a hole in a plastic panel for installation. The end result is worth it IMO.


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A mod that brightens my day every time I pop the hood is the Yota under hood LED light kit. It'll throw out a good amount of light and makes things that much easier when rooting around the engine bay. It has a switch to turn it on and off along with a hood switch that you can use together or separately. The hood switch can activate the light strip and the switch can turn it off at any time. Conversely, you can leave the hood switch out of the equation and just use the manual switch to turn on and off.
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So I kinda hated the stainless steel hardware on the JCR hardtop. Felt like it stuck out too much so I went ahead and swapped everything out for anodized black pieces. I will say the overall quality of the hardware supplied with the roof rack is suspect at best. Very soft, very easy to strip the Allen head or mar it up if using any sort of a power tool. I'd rather have good ol' hex heads even if they are a tad heavier.
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And now black. A much cleaner look, IMO.
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More practical stuff!
Been waiting on this for months and my EZtrunk from EZ4x4 finally arrived yesterday. Despite being swamped from the day job, I tackled installation last night as I needed something mindless to do for a bit. I did order the carpet kit and will install that this evening and will post photos. The EZ trunk folds flat when not needed and zero rattles on the way in to work this morning. I think my bass response has improved as well. I was a bit worried it would muffle the sub.

This'll come in super handy during Texas summer ( October through May) and not so much during Texas winter (June through September) since the top never comes off. Completely seals off your rear compartment when popped up and it's sturdy enough to stand on.

One caveat, this was supposed to be the new version that fits the Raptor but the lid, simply folding the leading edge back, still doesn't clear the cross brace. With that said, I got an urgent email from EZ4x4 after my kit had shipped asking if I had a Bronco raptor as they had to send me an additional part. I'm guessing it's a Raptor-specific leading edge. As is, it can still be folded flat by keeping the rear most portion of the lid flat, not folding it, and pulling forward/down and then flipping it back. Not a biggie IMO. If indeed this is how it's supposed to be, I'll reach back out. The corners of the lid are notched but not enough. The rest of the build and quality of the materials is top notch. The powder coating is flawless and it sits mostly straight for the most part with room for adjustment. The lid does "lock" by activating two swivel brackets that interface with the side of the EZtrunk on each side. They lock so you can't slide something down there and undo them. Once the rear gate is open, there are two "pull cords" for each bracket to unlock them and manually slide them into the neutral position. Can do this blindfolded. It took me about two hours to install it. Going to link to the unofficial installation video as the instructions give you a URL which doesn't exist so I had to go searching for it using google-fu. EZTrunk Bronco Installation

Other than that, this thing is solid. It did cover up my USB port for accessing the Mobridge via laptop but the cutout on the passenger's side is big enough I can still reach it easily. I also managed to leave my tool kit in the driver's side pocket and then promptly installed the EZTrunk's driver's side panel over the top. Luckily there's an access port that comes off with screws so you can access the dummy plugs for the wiring harness and wiper fluid line when the top is off. I may have to do some sort of dzus QD solution there.
Couple of quick shots with the phone...
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I've been incredibly busy, going on 14 days with no days off and dealing with the floods in Kerr County. None the less, I found an hour early this morning to install the rest of the carpeting on the EZ Trunk. There are essentially five pieces, two that cover the top of the lid, one for the side that's facing up when it's folded flat and two for the top of the side panels.
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And yes, you can still gain access to the jack with the EZ Trunk folded flat. One note, see the two rollers on either side near the top? Those need to be moved down and in slightly so the folded portion clears the brace. It's relocated for the Raptor already but it's not enough. I need to pull the panels, drill new holes and re-install the rollers. I'll do a detailed writeup when I actually have time to accomplish that. You can still unfold and deploy it but it's not an easy process and it does mar the plastic on the cross brace.
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The rollers below need to move down to about the top of the sticker and in so only half of the roller sticks out beyond that ledge. As is, 5/6 of it is past that ledge and it doesn't allow the folded portion enough clearance to easily pass by the cross brace.
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While I was at it, I've had Tufskins products sitting around for a few weeks waiting to be installed. And surprise, I have just the R for the front bumper. I asked nicely and they produced just the R for me along with inlays for the hood, rear cargo door badge and the surround for the toggle and light controls in the cockpit. I went with Race Red since I have other red accents elsewhere and it honestly seems to match all the interior orange bits. Pretty darn easy to install overall and very very good quality, great adhesion too.
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You can see where I prepped cleaned the plastic. I use this product from Carpro called Perl. It's on Amazon and elsewhere. Depending on its intended use, it's diluted to a specific ratio. I did the plastic on the Braptor back in what, February? And it still looks fantastic with a nice semi-matte finish that's streak free and has kept the plastic protected through multiple washes and lots of heat/sun. It puts 303 Aerospace to shame.
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You are going to make me spend some $$$
 
Ran out of photo space in the last post.
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The upper console surround seems like a bit much but you never really look at it full-on and with the other red/orange bits, the bright red grab handles, etc...it works IMO. Makes the interior a bit more fun but not sure I'd do anything else at this point for fear of it being too much.

More lights. I actually did the driving lights first, some time back. I went with the Ford Performance driving lights. I don't know for sure if these are identical to the floods internally but from what I can tell, the only difference is the front lens. I took the factory inboard "driving lights" which are nothing more than the exact same outboard fog lights and now utilize those as backup floods. I know there are likely better options but they're substantially more expensive and require replacing all the lights. This was a case where I wanted something better and I wanted an easy button. They're a good deal if you can find them on sale.
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I added yellow Rigid covers to the fogs although I'd like to find amber. I believe they exist, I've just not seen them in the wild, for sale, on the internet. Mostly added them for protection during the daily commute. I keep the covers on them 99% of the time unless I can find a set of clear covers. They're a nice upgrade and throw a lot of light down the road but are not DOT legal.

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I have a full writeup how-to on taking the factory fogs and converting them to backup lights here. I also added the Diode Dynamics hitch brake/backup light. It blinks upon initial braking application and I find that really helpful to keep the crazy drivers from riding my rather wide ass. It's pretty much plug and play but finicky to get the additional bulk added to the wiring harness tucked in neatly. Diode Dynamics Hitch Light
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This is what the light throw looks like without any additional help from the stock backup or Diode Dynamics hitch light.
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Thank you! I'm still only about halfway through everything I've added, LOL. I'll get there eventually.
 
I live and die by the radar detector. I've definitely slowed down due to moving from a sports car to the Braptor but I still like to know when I'm being zapped by a radar gun. I use the dash accessory mount and what is essentially a phone holder to position the detector and a USB to RJ11 power cord to run it off one of the USB ports on top of the dash. I leave it plugged in when I park and it seems to power down after a bit.
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This is the power cord I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CL8WHYTN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Here's the clamp for the radar detector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5SV81JS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I'll be replacing the Escort with a Valentine One here soon. I've had the Escort for some time and while it does still work, the screen is no longer visible in bright daylight and only the forward direction indicator error works. Been a pretty typical experience with Escort. Their stuff never really lasts or you have to send it in for service every few years and loose it for six weeks.

A bunch more cheap mods. These are basically commuter/passenger convenience mods for holding stuff whether it be drinks, sunglasses or whatever.

Front door pockets replace the nets.
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I thought these would be a bit more handy than they are but I don't use them. Plus the included double-sided tape doesn't really stick. They stay put for the most part.
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I rarely have rear passengers with two legs but why not. Made by Mabett. It's removable and a bit finicky to get locked in place. Also, the rear seat won't fold all the way down with it in place so I find myself removing it often. If you simply put it on the passenger seat floor, the seat will collapse fully.
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Lighting! This was probably the second or third mod I did. The Bronco's interior is dark and the lights are wholly inadequate especially at this price point/day and age. The rear dome light has threel LED banks so you get light directed forward down and into the cargo area. The installation is super easy and I did it at the same time as the side dome lights. Combined, they provide a fairly massive increase in lumens inside the cabin.
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The Mabett side dome lights took a bit more effort to install but they plug in at the rear dome light so there's no cutting/splicing and the installation is far easier than some other, more expensive kits out there.
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Once I had the hoist in place and I was able to remove the top completely, I had to be forced to put it back on. As such, I knew I'd need a vault of some sort. After a bit of research, I settled on the Tuffy vault. It has the widest opening overall. Installation was straightforward and I went with the combo version as I didn't want another key. I'll post a link to where I purchased it from but know these guys said it was in stock but I waited two weeks before it shipped. https://ok4wd.com/console-safe-ford-bronco-3-digit-combo-2021-2024/
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For rear visibility issues and to record stupid drivers doing stupid things, I installed a digital rear view mirror from Wolfbox. I ordered several additional parts related to the installation as I wasn't sure if I was going to run the rear camera inside or outside the cabin or whether I'd use a fusebox link to power it or use mirror power.
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In the end, I chose to mount the rear camera inside the cabin mostly so it'd stay usable in bad weather. The OEM rearview camera is worthless in the rain. I do lose nighttime visibility in terms of knowing exactly what's behind me but you can clearly see there's a car there due to their lights so it's a non-issue.

I have the G900 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DD78Y3L5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

In addition to the basic kit, you'll need the following:
-Wolfbox mirror bracket. This'll allow you to remove the OEM mirror and completely replace it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN31MBZP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-Dongar dash cam power adapter. This'll allow the use of the OEM rearview mirror plug to power the dash cam. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088P4VFQ7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-Right angle USB cord makes everything a bit tidier. This'll go from the Dongar adapter to the Wolfbox mirror: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092KF36T6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

-Mount for the rear camera (for inside the cabin): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWRTH5W7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-If you do want to mount the rear cam outside the vehicle, you'll want a longer wiring harness. Otherwise the included harness is long enough. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082RZNJFY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

-If you want to run power from the fuse box, you'll want this wiring harness: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X9F8GMT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
The harness will also power the camera 24/7 so you can use "sentry" mode and it'll record if there are loud noises, it senses motion, etc...

Overall I like the improved rear visibility but I do have some issues with it. First, it's not the same perspective as a normal rearview mirror. It's wider. I also need reading glasses so while I can see cars just fine, I can't always tell the make and model. With a normal rearview, I can spot a cop 400 yards back. Not so much with the LED mirror. It does record front and rear on a loop so I'll have video evidence if another driver does something stupid which is the main reason I have it. Oh and it acts as a normal mirror if you turn the power off.

Ok let's do some fun stuff!

I decided to change the fluids in the front and rear differential as well as the transfer case out of an abundance of precaution. I tend to do "performance" maintenance intervals on my vehicles. Knowing I'd be changing the fluids more often, I decided to purchase the Ford Performance rear differential cover since it has a built-in drain. I didn't want to remove the entire cover each time I changed the fluid so I thought this'll be a great mod!

Guess what. The OEM rear differential has a built-in drain that's visible from directly below. It's in the housing itself and not the cover. So...if you don't want the extra strength/rigidity of the nodular iron Ford Performance cover, no need to replace it. I did a full writeup of the installation here:
https://www.broncoraptor.com/thread...nsfer-case-fluid-swap-how-to.2312/#post-20080

At least it looks sexy...
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Lights! I spent way too much time researching lights and ultimately I stumbled across a deal for a new, uninstalled light bar as well as a new roof rack from another Bronco owner that I could not pass up. Ultimately, for me, it was the right choice so I sort of lucked out. .

Initially I tried an inexpensive bumper light that ended up not fitting despite being "made" for the Bronco with the modular bumper. After that experience and thinking about the whole cooling issue, I decided to to with a roof-mount setup despite the potential for noise and possible light spill/flaring on the windshield.

I came across a deal which included the Rigid 40" SR Pro "Midnight" light bar as well as the JCR full rack with light bar cutout.
Link to the light bar: https://www.rigidindustries.com/sr-srs-pro-40-mdnt-940214blk.html

I had been looking at the JCR for a couple of reasons including the ability to run a half rack setup and remove the front and passenger roof panels with it in place. I'm running the half rack configuration during the cooler months and the full rack during the summer when it's too hot to consider taking the top off.

For the half rack configuration, I ordered the Rigid light bar roof mount for the half rack configuration. It comes with a sound dampener which eliminates whistling, along with the brackets themselves and the mounting hardware.

The "midnight" editions have black PCB's so with the full rack configuration, it integrates really well if you like the sleeker look.

Half rack configuration:
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I'm going to come back to the full rack later as I don't have a good photo of the full rack/light setup. It's currently in that configuration so soon!

Moving on, I wanted pillar lights and did a lot of research ad nauseam and it came down to the KR Flex Era 3's or the Diode Dynamics SS3 Pro's as I thought both offered the most bang for the buck.

Both have amber "backlighting" and both can be modified at a later date to a different beam pattern. The KC's were easier to adjust but ultimately I got pushed towards the Diode Dynamics by a vendor. At the time, Diode Dynamics was also having issues with delivering products which didn't sit well. The pro's were back ordered with no arrival date but the SS3 Max's came in stock and I paid a bit more and snagged a set. I chose the driving combo lenses but may go flood. https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss3-sae-white-max-led-pod-pair.html

For mounts, I'd asked the vendor to nix the KR mounts but they arrived with my new lights anyway and I of course got charged for them. Anyway...I decided to do the Bad Ass mounts and I couldn't be happier with them. I've heard they'll "vibrate" but I've not experienced that. They've been rock solid and I like the aiming flexibility. In addition to the above, I purchased smoked lenses for the DD pillar lights to protect them day in and day out when not in use. The highways in my neck of the woods can be brutal in terms of debris. I also installed anti-theft hardware on everything, the mounts, the lights, all of it. Ultimately if someone wants something they'll get it but this'll deter the opportunist or at least slow them down dramatically.

Smoke translucent covers: https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss3-l...082&gbraid=0AAAAADEIEYhoRcPYlGLiIFXBZ9eE-SSIR
Security hardware for DD SS3's : https://www.diodedynamics.com/ss3-s...zT45-Fm-b-zLEJ_ppj38fNWpZmy7EYKEg1Oth8s51QRd8
Security hardware for the Bad Ass mounts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6HMZ6HY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
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Where did you get the grab handles above the windows?
 
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