Front shutter deactivation vs. removal

[Ape Factory]

I swapped IC's yesterday but didn't get a good chance to get a detailed look at the front active shutter setup. After testing it out yesterday and having highway cruise temps exactly the same as OEM, I had planned on removing the shutters next weekend. Ultimately, I don't think that's a good plan as there's ducting directing airflow to, and not around, the IC core.

Anyone know what the default position is on the shutters if I were to just disconnect the motor? I'm assuming it's open as it just makes more sense from a motor failure standpoint as well as the fact that when the car is off, the shutters are open. If so, I could leave the shutters in place to help direct airflow. Thoughts? I know TurboS used some ABS sheets and molded ducting to better seal the Whipple IC core but not sure I have the time to do all that right now.

 

[Bschurr]

You are correct @Ape Factory - Open is the default startup position.

 

[TurboS]

I swapped IC's yesterday but didn't get a good chance to get a detailed look at the front active shutter setup. After testing it out yesterday and having highway cruise temps exactly the same as OEM, I had planned on removing the shutters next weekend. Ultimately, I don't think that's a good plan as there's ducting directing airflow to, and not around, the IC core.

Anyone know what the default position is on the shutters if I were to just disconnect the motor? I'm assuming it's open as it just makes more sense from a motor failure standpoint as well as the fact that when the car is off, the shutters are open. If so, I could leave the shutters in place to help direct airflow. Thoughts? I know TurboS used some ABS sheets and molded ducting to better seal the Whipple IC core but not sure I have the time to do all that right now.

I would expect PCM errors if the shutter motor was disconnected, that's why with the Whipple Intercooler the shutter motor is still electically connected although the shutters must be removed since that space is now occupied by the Whipple IC. Basically fooling the PCM to think the shutters are still in place.

When the shutter motor is physically disconnected from the shutters, the shutters become free floating without a default open or closed position.

In order to remove the shutters and/or the shutter motor the bumper needs removed, but in the end the shutter motor will still need plugged into the wiring harness to avoid errors.

With the OEM tune, I wouldn't expect any benefit to a larger aftermarket IC as everything under the hood has been optimized for the highest efficiently with the OEM tune in all environments including the grueling conditions as encountered in Johnson Valley.

With a tune, which results in higher boost and increased engine & turbo rpm's the air charge temperature will increase significantly, then a larger IC will assist in keeping the air charge temperature closer to as designed. I also expect removing the shutters to maximize airflow thru the intercooler will help lower air charge temps.

Since your IC allows the shutters to remain installed, I would consider removing the individual shutter vanes but retaining the surrounding OEM shutter shroud to assist directing the airflow through the IC. Once again, benefits/lower air charge temps to be observed post tuning.

You are correct @Ape Factory - Open is the default startup position.

Open by default via the engine PCM calling for open shutter position to the shutter motor.

 

[TurboS]

Found some photo's of the OEM shutter assembly.

Front side:

Rear side (next to intercooler):

 

[Ape Factory]

Awesome, thanks for the photos! Yes, that's the plan, to leave it connected electronically but not operating the actual shutters themselves. I'll take a look at how easy it is it remove them and go from there. At the very least, if I can leave them in the open position, I'll be ahead.

I was actually surprised that transient response was improved and noticeable with turbo lag pretty much non-existent. It was almost like going from normal to sport mode, possibly due to a more efficient end tank design, larger core volume, maybe even less pressure drop across the core or what but it definitely wasn't a placebo.

If the IC is indeed more "efficient" thermally even with the stock tune, you'd see improvements from a lower charge temp at every point on the map. No different from ambient air temps being 20 degrees lower.

But I do agree, IC's tend to shine once you turn the boost up.

 

[Shelby392R]

I would expect PCM errors if the shutter motor was disconnected, that's why with the Whipple Intercooler the shutter motor is still electically connected although the shutters must be removed since that space is now occupied by the Whipple IC. Basically fooling the PCM to think the shutters are still in place.

When the shutter motor is physically disconnected from the shutters, the shutters become free floating without a default open or closed position.

In order to remove the shutters and/or the shutter motor the bumper needs removed, but in the end the shutter motor will still need plugged into the wiring harness to avoid errors.

With the OEM tune, I wouldn't expect any benefit to a larger aftermarket IC as everything under the hood has been optimized for the highest efficiently with the OEM tune in all environments including the grueling conditions as encountered in Johnson Valley.

With a tune, which results in higher boost and increased engine & turbo rpm's the air charge temperature will increase significantly, then a larger IC will assist in keeping the air charge temperature closer to as designed. I also expect removing the shutters to maximize airflow thru the intercooler will help lower air charge temps.

Since your IC allows the shutters to remain installed, I would consider removing the individual shutter vanes but retaining the surrounding OEM shutter shroud to assist directing the airflow through the IC. Once again, benefits/lower air charge temps to be observed post tuning.


Open by default via the engine PCM calling for open shutter position to the shutter moto

Awesome, thanks for the photos! Yes, that's the plan, to leave it connected electronically but not operating the actual shutters themselves. I'll take a look at how easy it is it remove them and go from there. At the very least, if I can leave them in the open position, I'll be ahead.

I was actually surprised that transient response was improved and noticeable with turbo lag pretty much non-existent. It was almost like going from normal to sport mode, possibly due to a more efficient end tank design, larger core volume, maybe even less pressure drop across the core or what but it definitely wasn't a placebo.

If the IC is indeed more "efficient" thermally even with the stock tune, you'd see improvements from a lower charge temp at every point on the map. No different from ambient air temps being 20 degrees lower.

But I do agree, IC's tend to shine once you turn the boost up.

More volume usually increase turbo lag, especially with small turbos. I would figure once on pressure though when in and out of throttle it would virtually disappear. Thinking about this I wonder if there needs to be any attention to the blow off valve. It would need to be open longer to deplete pressure but it also may recognize and relieve accordingly. I plan on doing this myself as mentioned to help lower over all temps. Let me know.

 

[Ape Factory]

I do have an aftermarket blowoff valve, came that way from the dealership believe it or not! Can't remember what brand it is honestly, I'll snap a photo. It's only audible with the windows down.

And yes, usually larger cores, larger pressure drop, etc....this was not the case and I was honestly surprised. I was just doing this for heat soak/efficiency purposes mostly as I know (and I know you know!) this summer is going to be brutal.

 

[Shelby392R]

I do aswell, but you can hear it at all times, more pressure the louder. Mine was basically just an insert using the stock solenoid. Speaking on that I like to keep everything i removed and lost one of the OEM (3) blow off valve bolts which were too short and cannot find where to buy those, you have any ideas?