Oil Change

[Code Orange]

Has anyone completed an oil change yet? If so...after how many miles and what type of oil did you use? I'm planning to do the initial oil change at 1,000 miles and contemplating whether to go with a synthetic blend or full synthetic. Interested in everyone's thoughts...

 

[Dragoon]

I like to change my oil early on the first oil change on new vehicles. Between 500 to 1,000 miles is usually what I shoot for.

 

[TurboS]

I'm just under 500 miles, plan to change soon ~500 miles, 5w-30 Mobil 1 with Motorcraft cartridge filter. My UPR drain plug should be arriving by next week at which time I'll change the oil. Probably not needed so soon, but will make me feel better.

 

[BRVOL]

I changes my oil at 1,000 miles and plan to do it every 5,000 from now on. I always use Mobil One oil in all my cars. The Raptor takes 7.5 quarts.

 

[Code Orange]

Anyone use AMSOIL Signature Series?

 

[Warthog69]

Anyone use AMSOIL Signature Series?

Yes, I’ve used Amsoil in all of my vehicles for at least 25 years. I had my Ford dealership change the oil at about 4K miles and use my Amsoil. I purchased my Raptor with about 1600 miles as it was preowned and the dealer had it changed with regular oil prior to sale. I’ll probably start changing my own on the next change. You can’t go wrong with Amsoil. It’s a bit pricey but I feel it’s the best synthetic that is out there.

 

[Dgchurch]

I'm running amsoil and doing changes about every 5K. You'll find the 3.0L runs hot, frequently above 240 deg when pushing it. Ford says that's ok and Amsoil says their oil can handle those temps. But...... I used to do 10K changes on my other vehicles with no issues up to 200K; not comfortable at that interval given how hot the motor runs... so doing 5K changes.

thought about changing to a 170 deg thermostat but haven't gone down that rabbit hole yet. 20K miles on my braptor so far... no issues....

 

[Warthog69]

I'm running amsoil and doing changes about every 5K. You'll find the 3.0L runs hot, frequently above 240 deg when pushing it. Ford says that's ok and Amsoil says their oil can handle those temps. But...... I used to do 10K changes on my other vehicles with no issues up to 200K; not comfortable at that interval given how hot the motor runs... so doing 5K changes.

thought about changing to a 170 deg thermostat but haven't gone down that rabbit hole yet. 20K miles on my braptor so far... no issues....

That’s interesting, I’ve read several comments about how hot the 3.0 runs but I’ve not experienced those temps as of yet. At highway speeds with the outside temperature being around 100F here in Oklahoma I’ve not really gone above 190 and in stop and go traffic barely over 200. I just assumed that the Amsoil was a contributing factor to the temps not running as high as some that I’ve heard. We also have the option to use gasoline without the ethanol in it and that’s all I run in any of my vehicles. I think that the 5K oil change is perfect. Cheap insurance. I can’t say that I’ve really pushed my Raptor yet so that’s probably why I’ve not experienced the super high temps.

 

[Dgchurch]

That’s interesting, I’ve read several comments about how hot the 3.0 runs but I’ve not experienced those temps as of yet. At highway speeds with the outside temperature being around 100F here in Oklahoma I’ve not really gone above 190 and in stop and go traffic barely over 200. I just assumed that the Amsoil was a contributing factor to the temps not running as high as some that I’ve heard. We also have the option to use gasoline without the ethanol in it and that’s all I run in any of my vehicles. I think that the 5K oil change is perfect. Cheap insurance. I can’t say that I’ve really pushed my Raptor yet so that’s probably why I’ve not experienced the super high temps.

Running flat freeways in north central CA at 100 deg F I've not had it run hot either. My experiences have been running standard freeways in elevation (say sacramento to reno over the donner) at 65 "ish" deg F at 65mph.

That consistently produces temps > 235 deg F.

Rock crawling over the rubicon no issues...

mountain climbing say in moon rock nevada (again at low temps circa 50 deg F) i ran 242 deg F.

All that said.. as soon as i shut the rig off OR begin a flat stretch the motor drops to circa 200F.

 

[Greybeard]

Just my two cents…

I’m a fan of Mobil 1 — they’ve definitely earned their reputation. Same goes for Amsoil. That said, I’ve come to accept that modern engines are engineered with much tighter tolerances than the ones I used to tinker with 20 years ago. Because of that, I’m a believer in sticking to the oil specs recommended by Ford. In most cases, the CPU oil change means 10K-mile intervals, thanks in part to the larger oil capacity (around 7 quarts). The whole system behaves more like a diesel than the traditional gas engines I’m used to.

On temperatures:
You’ve got a nearly $100K machine that’s purpose-built to perform. If there’s ever a real temp issue, the car’s computer will let you know. My advice? Enjoy it.

Catch can:
I’m hesitant to add a catch can when the engineers who designed the engine didn’t think it was necessary. Unless there’s compelling evidence otherwise, I’d leave it stock.

That said, I do like the idea of squeezing a bit more performance out of the engine — just not going overboard. Factory settings often play it safe for legal and warranty reasons. A modest tuning chip can really wake things up. Turbocharged engines are inherently more robust and capable of handling a bit more than their naturally aspirated counterparts. Still, I’m not looking to go crazy.

And please — don’t add Lucas Oil Additive.
That’s a quick way to raise oil temps and potentially do more harm than good.

 

[jeffreybehr]

And my two cents worth.

I've been changing my own oil for MANY decades (I'm 81YO and was raised in a mechanic's family).. Engineoil (why oh why did the world start calling them 'motors'?).. I believe that:
1. 'All' the engineoil available now is at least 'good', and many are better than that;
2. Even the regular-price type-III synthetics are, overall, better for an engine than any dead-dyno stuff;
3. The 'real' synthetics such as Red Line, Amsoil, etc. are better than the lesser-expensive type-III synthetics;
4. Engine oil is inexpensive compared the costs of replacing engines, and
5. The the so-called 'boutique' (sp?) oil made with PAOs and esters are the highest-quality engineoils money can buy.. Unfortunately for us and them, at least some of those low-volume companies cannot (or at least choose to not) afford the costs of qualifying their oils with auto manufacturers.

I bought my second Bronco, a '24 BRaptor, last month with about 3000 miles on it, changed the oil using Kirkland full-synthentic 5W30, decided a few-hundred miles later to use Red Line 5W30, and still wrestled with myself about the possible risks of using a highest-quality-but-not-qualifed oil.. I checked with Red Line to see what they recommend--their 5W30 Euro version--and bought 15 quarts* of that.. That is what I'll be using about every 5000 miles from now on.

My oil temps driving around Phoenix in its 110dF-and-above daytime temps rarely get to 200dF, and coolant temps run around 190dF.. I use 87AKI gasoline boosted to about 91AKI with Boostane, of which I have much.

* That was the quantity that earned me free shipping.

 

[jeffreybehr]

...and my BRaptor uses exactly 7 quarts with filter change.

 

[Bschurr]

Oil threads are always contentious however, regardless of what manufacturer or weight or additives (don’t do it) you use, it is most IMPORTANT to send out your oil for analysis to Blackstone or similar lab during each change for a comprehensive report on various fastest of its performance, longevity and your engine’s health. And that my Braptor buddies is my $0.02 - YMMV