UPR Braptor Catch Can Development! Let’s GOOOOO!

LethalPerformance

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I’ll be updating this thread with lots of content regarding the new catch can setups that UPR is developing with our Bronco Raptor. Just dropped it off today and should have it back either later today or tomorrow.

Part numbers, pricing, info, installation vid and pics will follow shortly.
 
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Just got some pics from Steve over at UPR. He’s got the single valve setup done and it came out great. He’s working on the dual valve setup today. I’ll be sure to post more pics as they come in.
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What exactly are these and are they not provided by Ford during production?
Aftermarket catch cans use the PCV / vacuum derived from the stock system to "catch" blow-by (or the vapor remnants) that the stock system simply does not do. The excess oil build up that would come from said blow-by in the intake manifold can foul plugs and even, eventually, interfere with combustion.
 
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The UPR Bronco Raptor dual valve catch cans are now live and available for purchase. This is the same one that they used our Braptor for to test and develop the kit. I haven't checked the can for oil yet but will follow up with a video once I get a moment to check on it.

In the meantime here's the link and some pics of it installed on our Braptor. If anyone has any questions feel free to reach out and we'll be glad to assist you.

https://www.lethalperformance.com/u...r-2022-bronco-raptor-3-0l-5030-284-1-css.html

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I can easily enough remove my JB4 before taking my Braptor in for service and I can't really see them saying anything about the Whipple intercooler I added. If I add these am I basically throwing my extended warranty I bought out the window? I agree with what they do and I am sure Ford and the dealerships know that these vehicles are going to be modified since that is what they are meant for, but what is your experience with adding catch cans and dealerships giving you crap if an issue comes up?
 
I can easily enough remove my JB4 before taking my Braptor in for service and I can't really see them saying anything about the Whipple intercooler I added. If I add these am I basically throwing my extended warranty I bought out the window? I agree with what they do and I am sure Ford and the dealerships know that these vehicles are going to be modified since that is what they are meant for, but what is your experience with adding catch cans and dealerships giving you crap if an issue comes up?
The short answer is no, you wouldn't be throwing your extended warranty away. Although, depending on how you deep you plan to go with modifications, it starts to depend on your dealer's service writer. Some dealers are more mod-friendly than others.

In our experiences with our customers, a catch can has never caused an issue at dealer, as it shouldn't. If you wanna be super careful, you can always remove the UPR catch can prior to dealer visit in about 10 minutes or less, since it has the Plug n Play push button connections.

In situations where something does go array and you need that warranty, the technician would have to determine the aftermarket parts caused the issue. Obviously that is in a perfect world scenario where the dealers aren't scumbags.

Personally, I'd form a good relationship with your service writer and/or find a dealer that is aftermarket parts friendly, but with the current mods you have, I can't imagine you'll have any trouble, especially with the JB4 removed.
 
The short answer is no, you wouldn't be throwing your extended warranty away. Although, depending on how you deep you plan to go with modifications, it starts to depend on your dealer's service writer. Some dealers are more mod-friendly than others.

In situations where something does go array and you need that warranty, the technician would have to determine the aftermarket parts caused the issue. Obviously that is in a perfect world scenario where the dealers aren't scumbags.

Personally, I'd form a good relationship with your service writer and/or find a dealer that is aftermarket parts friendly, but with the current mods you have, I can't imagine you'll have any trouble, especially with the JB4 removed.
With the single valve catch can, may it be removed if needed without any indication it was once installed? Appears only the dual valve requires a small modificaton and if in doubt that mod could be removed by purchasing a second OEM turbo inlet tube/hose.
 
With the single valve catch can, may it be removed if needed without any indication it was once installed? Appears only the dual valve requires a small modificaton and if in doubt that mod could be removed by purchasing a second OEM turbo inlet tube/hose.
Yes, that is correct. Single valve catch can requires no modification to the factory tubing or anything that cannot be simply put back to OEM, therefore making it untraceable. In theory, it could take less than a minute to remove it if you know what you're doing.

And correct, the dual catch can does require the modification to the turbo inlet tube that isn't easily reversible. Another thing with the dual valve is the addition of a CSS (clean side separator) to the driver side valve cover. This can be removed as well and without irreversible modification, but just an additional step with the dual valve.
 
The short answer is no, you wouldn't be throwing your extended warranty away. Although, depending on how you deep you plan to go with modifications, it starts to depend on your dealer's service writer. Some dealers are more mod-friendly than others.

In our experiences with our customers, a catch can has never caused an issue at dealer, as it shouldn't. If you wanna be super careful, you can always remove the UPR catch can prior to dealer visit in about 10 minutes or less, since it has the Plug n Play push button connections.

In situations where something does go array and you need that warranty, the technician would have to determine the aftermarket parts caused the issue. Obviously that is in a perfect world scenario where the dealers aren't scumbags.

Personally, I'd form a good relationship with your service writer and/or find a dealer that is aftermarket parts friendly, but with the current mods you have, I can't imagine you'll have any trouble, especially with the JB4 removed.
I hear you. Thanks for the input. I had issues with my last Ecoboost where I did some similar mods like I have already started with the Braptor. Right before I traded it in for this thing I was starting to get some mis-fires and I also noticed I had some oil getting into my intercooler. I definitely do think that over extended periods of time these catch cans can really save some engine problems from happening. Especially if you are running it modified. In order to stop oil from getting to unwanted places would it be better to have the single or dual valve? I really like the simplicity of removal of the single to cover my rear if I needed to bring it for something engine related, but would it trap enough to help over time? I guess basically what I am asking is does the single valve trap more unwanted oil than a dual or is the same amount of unwanted oil coming from both places?
 
I hear you. Thanks for the input. I had issues with my last Ecoboost where I did some similar mods like I have already started with the Braptor. Right before I traded it in for this thing I was starting to get some mis-fires and I also noticed I had some oil getting into my intercooler. I definitely do think that over extended periods of time these catch cans can really save some engine problems from happening. Especially if you are running it modified. In order to stop oil from getting to unwanted places would it be better to have the single or dual valve? I really like the simplicity of removal of the single to cover my rear if I needed to bring it for something engine related, but would it trap enough to help over time? I guess basically what I am asking is does the single valve trap more unwanted oil than a dual or is the same amount of unwanted oil coming from both places?
Yes, the Single Valve will get the majority of that unwanted oil mist out of the PCV system (roughly 80% of total PCV system) and will definitely will provide a long term benefit to not having one at all. The dual valve essentially adds a source of vacuum that stays vacuum under boost, just allowing for the catch can to work under both boost and regular driving. If you drive the truck flat out in full boost everywhere you go, you may want to opt for the extra steps the dual catch can calls for, BUT, if you drive with lots of cruising and occasional pulls (like the majority people do), the single will do just fine.
 
Yes, the Single Valve will get the majority of that unwanted oil mist out of the PCV system (roughly 80% of total PCV system) and will definitely will provide a long term benefit to not having one at all. The dual valve essentially adds a source of vacuum that stays vacuum under boost, just allowing for the catch can to work under both boost and regular driving. If you drive the truck flat out in full boost everywhere you go, you may want to opt for the extra steps the dual catch can calls for, BUT, if you drive with lots of cruising and occasional pulls (like the majority people do), the single will do just fine.
Perfect. That is what I was wanting to know. Thanks for the info. I’ll be getting a single on the way soon it appears then. Typically too much traffic where I am at to drive like an animal everywhere. Ha. Sure would be fun though.
 
Anybody worried about carbon build up with the 3.0L EcoBoost engine in your BRaptor? If so, what are you doing about it? Catch can bypass as advocated in this thread?

You probably read this in a 27-DEC Ford Authority posting: "... Our technician notes that this improvement can be attributed to the engine’s dual port injection, as port injected vehicles don’t have this issue, while direct injected engines experience, as we saw, pretty bad carbon buildup." https://fordauthority.com/2022/12/new-ford-3-5l-v6-ecoboost-carbon-buildup-evaluated-video/

Port Injection (PI) = no build up
Dual Port Injection (DPI) = some build up
Direct Injection (DI) = significant build up

Granted this is after 100k miles on 3.5L engines and BRaptors have not been around long enough to rack up those kinds of miles, but what about preventive maintenance? Catch can and premium fuel? For whatever reason, Ford opted to not use a DPI setup on the 3.0L EcoBoost; hence, it is prone to more carbon build-up.

So is there a real reason why EcoBoost engines like the 2.7L and 3.5L (Gen2) are DPI? On the DPI engines, the PI is only used on cold start or until the engine reaches optimal temperature, then it switches over and uses DI. Did Ford only do this to improve the EPA rating?

Given the 3.0L EcoBoost engine is a DI design, it makes me think I might need that catch can mod. 🧐 Is the catch can a real fix or just an expensive band-aid? I wonder why Ford is not advocating it?

Who wants to pay for a timing job every 100k miles? Is Walnut shell blast cleaning a viable option?

This and all other mods fall into the Total Cost of Ownership (5 yrs).

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I have the UPR single valve catch can described above from Lethal Performance to hopefully help mitigate. I remember hearing of the F-150 2.7 manual having a procedure to purge engine carbon, haven't found it yet in the Bronco Raptor manual.
 
Copy. The 2023 owner's manual doesn't address it. The closest I've seen is p.180, which discusses fuel quality.

Does your dealer have a problem with the catch can installed? Or do you remove it prior to a dealer visit?
 
Copy. The 2023 owner's manual doesn't address it. The closest I've seen is p.180, which discusses fuel quality.

Does your dealer have a problem with the catch can installed? Or do you remove it prior to a dealer visit?
My dealer won't have a problem with it, however I went with the UPR single valve catch can above as it can easily be completely removed without a trace it was ever installed.
 
Have you checked to see how much oil it has caught yet? I’m curious to see how much that thing comes up with over time.
 
Have you checked to see how much oil it has caught yet? I’m curious to see how much that thing comes up with over time.
My Raptor is in winter storage, I'd love to drive it in the snow but we have very salty wet roads all winter. Been detailing and modifying so it's ready once the salt washes away.

I'm not convinced this catch can is purposed to mitigate the same condition as the DI vs PI carbon build up issue since that sounds fuel related. Need to further dig into the root causes.
 
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