UPR Braptor Catch Can Development! Let’s GOOOOO!

[BRVOL]

What is the difference in the bolt you used vs what comes with the kit?

The one that comes with the kit you have to tighten with an allen wrench. I bought one you can use a standard wrench to tighten. I recommend this and inserting from the inside out like in a previous post in this thread.

 

[95BK9]

Thanks, I hope to be ordering mine next week.

 

[Dragoon]

I ordered mine along with the 90-degree adaptors. I can't wait to get it installed!

 

[95BK9]

Thanks for the info.

H5032-88 from UPR
Fitting Size: 5/8" ?

 

[ChiliPepper]

I had a long talk with the service manager at the local Ford dealer regarding aftermarket parts. Specifically, "will a catch can void my warranty?" His answer "NO, but why do you need one?" "True the DI Ecoboost engine is not as clean as a PI engine. We've never seen carbon fouling in the 25 years I've been working here."

I see it as cheap insurance amortized over 10 years.

 

[95BK9]

Just installed mine, thanks to all the help form the form. I ordered the fittings also H5032-88 from UPR .
I used a locking bolt for the can mounting bracket to the battery bracket. I did remove the Allen bolts and spin the can like TurboS said.

 

[Dragoon]

I installed my UPR single-valve catch can today and I found the install recommendations from @Ricky and @TurboS to be really helpful! I used a 90-degree fitting on the vacuum line on the catch can side instead of the included 45-degree fitting. I also spun the can mount around so that the vacuum line from the can was on the battery side instead of the fan side. I used the included 45-degree fitting on the PCV side, but after seeing @95BK9 install I might go back and put a 90-degree fitting on that end as well.

Here's a quick video of how the factory Ford PCV quick connects work. I squeezed and pushed everything around the fittings for far too long and said a few choice words before figuring out to simply push the little blue block toward the rear of the BR.

 

[95BK9]

Looks great, Excellent job.
There had been a lot of help from the others on this board . It will be interesting to see how much Oil and fluids we get in our catch cans.

 

[LethalPerformance]

 

[ChiliPepper]

As part of my long list of mods, I did an oil/filter change after the "1000-mile break-in" and installed the dual valve UPR oil catch can. I stubbed the WOT return to the passenger side turbo inlet until the 3y/36k mile warranty is over or until my Ford service manager gets comfortable with the mod. I was a little leary of drilling a hole in my turbo inlet at this point. This mod installation took about 90 minutes.

I upgraded the catch can bracket bolt to a hex button head 3/8" with a nylock nut. I also rotated the dual-valve can 180° so the vacuum hose is closest to the battery and both hoses run parallel instead of crossing over. This also allowed the WOT stub to rest out of the way. There was no need to buy extra 90° fittings; the elbow fittings on the catch can can be rotated 45° to accomodate the 45° fitting on the vacuum hose so it runs flush. See photos. Side note: my vac and WOT hoses were upgraded with the UPR Pro Series 5/8" check valves.

The CSS fitting removal was a PITA. 🌶️ is so large I had to crawl up into the engine compartment to gain access. No amount of effort with a hook pick would release the black cover on the orange fitting. The UPR instructions make it look easy because all the other hoses are removed for photo clarity. Adventually, the orange portion broke and the fitting released. Since this fitting is discarded and replaced with the UPR fitting, it was no big loss.

Hey woodchuck, How much oil can a catch can catch if a catch can could catch oil?

 

[95BK9]

Great Mod, I have yet to empty mine.

 

[DesertRacer1698]

I have a question about the installation of the dual catch can instructions. It says to use a heat gun to remove one of the fittings and replace with the UPR fitting. I personally don't want to heat up a hose to replace the fitting, seems like a bad idea and you're asking for vacuum leaks...
Any issues yet? Are your catch cans doing as advertised? THANKS....

 

[ChiliPepper]

I have a question about the installation of the dual catch can instructions. It says to use a heat gun to remove one of the fittings and replace with the UPR fitting. I personally don't want to heat up a hose to replace the fitting, seems like a bad idea and you're asking for vacuum leaks...
Any issues yet? Are your catch cans doing as advertised? THANKS....

It is very difficult to remove the hose if you do not "warm" it up. I tried. The key is to warm it up, remove hose quickly and install the UPR fitting ASAP so when it cools it conforms to the fitting. I have had no leaks (so far). 🤞

I'll be doing my first oil change after a WY trip next week. I'll report on the oil caught.

 

[TurboS]

First oil change since installing the UPR single valve oil catch can, in 2038 miles it captured about 1-2 tablespoon of oily liquid. For reference this is with Mobil 1 5w-30, catch can is definitely working!

 

[95BK9]

Good to know, I Installed mine after my 1st change @ 1K Miles. Plan on 5k for next change.
Glad to know it is working.

 

[DallasCajun]

I've mine on since late July and not a drop captured yet after checking 3 times. Not complaining as much as commenting that my driving/vehicle hasn't required the use of one (yet). Will keep it in place through next summer just to see if it continues to stay dry; will probably remove for next Dealer Service though.

 

[TurboS]

I've mine on since late July and not a drop captured yet after checking 3 times. Not complaining as much as commenting that my driving/vehicle hasn't required the use of one (yet). Will keep it in place through next summer just to see if it continues to stay dry; will probably remove for next Dealer Service though.

Something doesn't seem right, all our 3.0L need this regardless of driving style.
Check if the in-line black check valve on the return hose (one that runs from along the side of the collection canister to the engine intake) the arrow should be pointing towards the engine as seen in the photo below.

If the check valve has the arrow pointing towards the engine (direction of air flow) call UPR as maybe a component is operating incorrectly.

 

[DallasCajun]

I'm checking w UPR...double-checked the install and everything appears to be properly in place. You would think that after 3-4K miles that it would either catch something OR possibly be causing issues for the engine itself.

Return Line: oriented properly from can to engine:

Empty Can:

Filter showing a little bit of residue:

 

[DallasCajun]

SO...I just learned a lesson. Just because you don't see liquid sloshing around doesn't mean there isn't anything there. If you take a look at the image of the can that I showed earlier it appears dry as a bone.

I decided to remove the system while I did some more investigating to make sure I wasn't causing any issues by having it installed. It's <10 min job so no big deal. But when I took a closer look at the can it occurred to me that there was some brownish coloring near the magnet AND is seemed the slightest bit uneven (there's a crescent-shaped area in the top-left of the image). So I stuck a flathead down there and quickly realized it wasn't 'dry' as much as it was a thick sludge that gave the appearance of being dry.

So a few minutes of cleaning it out w/ paper towels and then re-install. So apparently it is catching some crud, but for some reason in mine it's drying out pretty quickly.

Lesson Learned here is I may just need to check more frequently to catch it before it has a chance to dry out (as in monthly ???).

 

[TurboS]

SO...I just learned a lesson. Just because you don't see liquid sloshing around doesn't mean there isn't anything there. If you take a look at the image of the can that I showed earlier it appears dry as a bone.

I decided to remove the system while I did some more investigating to make sure I wasn't causing any issues by having it installed. It's <10 min job so no big deal. But when I took a closer look at the can it occurred to me that there was some brownish coloring near the magnet AND is seemed the slightest bit uneven (there's a crescent-shaped area in the top-left of the image). So I stuck a flathead down there and quickly realized it wasn't 'dry' as much as it was a thick sludge that gave the appearance of being dry.

So a few minutes of cleaning it out w/ paper towels and then re-install. So apparently it is catching some crud, but for some reason in mine it's drying out pretty quickly.

Lesson Learned here is I may just need to check more frequently to catch it before it has a chance to dry out (as in monthly ???).

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Your collection canister being in Texas is subject to substantially more heat than my Raptor has ever seen. Majority of the 2k miles on mine are in 40-50 degree weather. If temps are the factor, then you should start seeing liquid over the next couple months.