What did you do to your Bronco Raptor today?

First post here,

Took the tops off for the first time after installing Smarterhome bronco hardtop lifter. It works great. Also install Broncobikini.com top and some Tufskinz decals! I love this freaking thing! 😁
 

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So, after the sidewall gash on the Rubicon, the options were to repair the tire with my GlueTread kit or buy a new tire. Given the location of the gash and that it had 7/32" left on it after 48k miles, I started thinking new tires (for the winter) since the warranty is only for 50k miles. But which tires, which rating, which size?
BFG, Falken, Nitto, Mickey Thompson, etc.
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After a little research, I decided against 38" or 39" tires and the suspension mods required. I found that the 37" Wildpeak tires are too heavy (for me), even if they have 19/32. Nitto is not good for winter (per spray), too heavy, and speed-limited. I really wanted the KO3s because of the thicker sidewalls, better rubber compound, better siping, better mud clearing, blah, blah, blah, but I do not need an E- or F-rated tire. The C-rated KO3 is expected out in May 2026. What about a D-rated KO3? 😍

[edit: This post by RennWagen was about 4 days too late; otherwise, I might have reconsidered the F-rated KO3s.]

The BFG Labor Day sale at Discount Tire and 1010 Tire was the deciding factor. Stick with the C-rated KO2s and keep the best, worn tire (10/32") for a spare, and do a 4-tire rotation. Restart the 5-tire rotation after all tires are 10/32". Then upgrade to the C- or D-rated KO3 after I wear out the KO2s.

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Stock Tire:
BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2; 37x12.5R17 /C 116S, 65 lbs, 3/6ply, 15/32, $375 on sale

Possible Upgrades:
BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2; 37x12.5R17 /D 116R, 70 lbs, 3/8ply, 15/32, $488
BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO3; 37x12.5R17 /C 116R, 66 lbs, 3/6ply, 16/32, $455 (n/a until 2026)
BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO3; 37x12.5R17 /F 128R, 75 lbs 3/12ply, 16/32, $482
Falken Wildpeak A/T3W; 37x12.5R17 /D 124R, 82 lbs, 3/10ply, 19/32, $458
Falken Wildpeak A/T4W; 37x12.5R17 /E 128R, 80 lbs, 3/10ply, 19/32, $390 on sale
Nitto Ridge Grappler; 37x12.5R17 /D 124Q, 82 lbs, 3/8ply, 18/32, $462

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And now for the rest of the story . . .
So, I get the tires at my local Discount Tire store. I'm in and out in 90 minutes; mounted and balanced. They said they needed to take the beauty rings off due to interference with their mounting machine. OK, fine. The drive home was great; gotta love that new tire smell.

When I got home, a valve stem cap was missing on the driver's front. No problem, I've got more. But then, I noticed the beauty ring was mounted wrong; shifted by 10 holes. 😖 Same problem on 2 other wheels. Then, I noticed the spare tire was pinching my camera wire because they didn't feed it through the center hub. So now I'm worried about all the bolts and nuts, are they torqued properly? Short answer: NO. 😡 Several lug nuts were overtorqued by as much as 300 ft-lbs (air gun for sure); two were only on hand-tight. Similar issues with the beauty ring bolts: several overtorqued, several undertorqued. So, I spent the next 4 hours redoing EVERYTHING! 🤬 It is hard to get good help. To be fair, I have Gorilla locking lug nuts, so that may have confused them. 🙄 🤦‍♂️

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Needless to say, I will NOT be taking advantage of Discount Tire's free rotation. While at the shop, I noticed that 80% of the customers were older than me; probably in their 70s or more. What do they do to verify the technician's workmanship? The one thing Discount Tire did right, they gave me a lifetime warranty on all 5 tires for the cost of only 3 tires. I may need that if I get another sidewall gash.
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The torque specification for the beauty ring bolts (wheel trim ring bolts) on a Ford Bronco, specifically for models like the Raptor and Sasquatch or beadlock-capable wheels, is 22 ft-lb (30 Nm).

These bolts should be tightened in a 4-star pattern to ensure even pressure (even though they are cosmetic).
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It’s recommended to remove any factory thread locker (e.g., yellow residue) from the bolts and apply anti-seize to prevent seizing and facilitate future removal. Be cautious not to overtighten, as these bolts are prone to stripping (in the aluminum wheels), and use a T45 Torx bit for proper fit.

If bead-lock rings are being installed, then the sequence is a 4-pass process using the same 4-star pattern with a 13mm socket and provided bolts:
1st Pass: 11 ft-lb (15 Nm)
2nd Pass: 26 ft-lb (35 Nm)
3rd Pass: 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)
4th Pass: recheck 48 ft-lb (65 Nm)
Verify zero gap between the ring and wheel using a feeler gauge.
Inflate the tire standing up so the rear bead will "pop" over the inboard bead hump.
Recheck bead-lock bolt torque after initial 500 miles.

🤔 How do you trust a tire tech will do the job properly?

[Edit: The Lab North America has an exchange program if you want colored wheel trim or bead-lock rings. I have a feeling that the trail rash on my rings would disqualify me. :oops:]
 
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I never trust any "tech". Discount Tire is horrible for anything other than buying tires. I've had so many issues with them over the years I no longer go there. I can usually get a better deal at Costco or at a smaller tire shop. My last visit, they managed to cross thread THREE nuts on my wife's car necessitating new studs on both front wheels and I had them remove the rest and torque them properly as, like your experience, they just hit them with an air gun.

After having a full counter steer incident in the wet while navigating a corner a few days ago, I can't change over to the K03's soon enough. Thank goodness for 15 years of track days. Totally saved my ass. I will say the K02's, and the Bronco, handle deep deep puddles at speed with aplomb. Hit a "puddle" at the end of an exit ramp (awesome drainage engineering) and gave the entire vehicle an absolutely drenching wash. Zero visibility for a good 3-4 seconds at 50mph while cruising next to a large retaining wall. Good times.
 
So this happened…I’m running an S&B intake with their oiled filter. We were running at altitude in the San Juan mins of Colorado. It was dry. I tried to employ the filter wrap to avoid this. Didn’t go well. After about 5 minutes, I threw a bunch of warnings and he went into limp mode. Bogging bad. Shut down. Removed filter wrap. Restarted. All warnings gone, ran fine the rest of the week. Now this. 🙄 I’ve been in contact with S&B. They thought it might be the filter wrap causing too much restriction and it sucked air from wherever it could, causing dust to get in. Sounds good, but I only ran the filter wrap for 5 minutes before I had to remove it due to issues, at an altitude of about 12,500 ft. So I’m waiting to hear back about oiling the filter a bit heavier than factory. To be continued…
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I also have an S&B oiled filter, mine has the wrap installed for about 18 Months have not had any issues.
 
So, I had an issue wheeling last week in the San Juan Mountains, specifically, Engineer, Imogene, mineral Creek passes. I kept hearing a loud clank that was dismissed as a rock bouncing off my skid plates. Well, something was….it was my gas tank skid! I altered it a bit with a dremel and a file to allow for more clearance. This is a Foutz diff skid and the stock gas tank skid. Seems the bent lip was contacting the diff skid on tight, off camber turns. I’ve alerted Foutz. They told me they haven’t had this issue before now. I guess R&D will be inspecting these pics.
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I have wheeled a few times in the mountains in Tennessee, but not at the altitude you were at.
 
I have wheeled a few times in the mountains in Tennessee. But not at the altitude you were at.
 
I have wheeled a few times in the mountains in Tennessee, but not at the altitude you were at.
As soon as I put on the filter wrap, within 5 minutes, threw a bunch of warnings and went into limp mode. I couldn’t manually shift in 4 low. It bogged down badly, totally air starved. I guess the thin air at that altitude was too little for the wrap. Once I removed it and restarted, it ran fine, no issues.
 

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