What did you do to your Bronco Raptor today?

Tye

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If you remember, I pulled my front IAG Interior lights off their brackets in preparation for the JTops a few weeks ago. At the time I had ideas of ultimately trimming off the tabs that connect to the bracket just to clean it up a bit. Well I found the adhesion from the Velcro used to hold them in place wasn’t what I would like as I kept knocking them around. Additionally I’m always adjusting the rear ones as the long bracket makes it pretty easy for those to get off angle.

Took care of all those issues today. Simply applied felt tape to the back of all the lights and screwed them in directly into the bars with no brackets. They fit perfectly in the recesses and the JTops helps hide the wiring attaching them. Sitting in the recesses also doesn’t block any of the light to the cabin. I’m assuming there’s no safety issue in the case of an airbag deployment as the seam should be below the lights. Far happier with this install but realize that the value in the brackets was spreading the light sources closer to the where they are needed. Will see when I use them at night if I really notice anything but they added so much brightness that It was almost too much.

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And while I was at it, I installed some matte ‘carbon fiber’ trim pieces over the door pulls. I think they match the OEM CF a little better than gloss and add just enough additional cf style given the CF package doesn’t exactly add much to the interior design. And I’ll keep telling myself that they help protect against scratches in that area as well :)

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Are the CF door pull surrounds ABS plastic with a thin layer of CF over there, or are they purely a sticker?
 

DallasCajun

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Jan 6, 2023
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DallasCajun

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Todays 2.5hp boost.

Maybe StickerFab should find out what colors Vinyl Sometimes uses as this is the perfect Code Orange.

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Tye

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Jan 9, 2023
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DallasCajun

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im tempted to send vinyl sometimes this stickerfab grab handle sticker and see if they can scan it and print in code orange.
Some people are playing chess while the rest are playing checkers…

I like that idea…hopefully without the drama of BroncBuster v Rough Country (if you know you know).
 

DallasCajun

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If you remember, I pulled my front IAG Interior lights off their brackets in preparation for the JTops a few weeks ago. At the time I had ideas of ultimately trimming off the tabs that connect to the bracket just to clean it up a bit. Well I found the adhesion from the Velcro used to hold them in place wasn’t what I would like as I kept knocking them around. Additionally I’m always adjusting the rear ones as the long bracket makes it pretty easy for those to get off angle.

Took care of all those issues today. Simply applied felt tape to the back of all the lights and screwed them in directly into the bars with no brackets. They fit perfectly in the recesses and the JTops helps hide the wiring attaching them. Sitting in the recesses also doesn’t block any of the light to the cabin. I’m assuming there’s no safety issue in the case of an airbag deployment as the seam should be below the lights. Far happier with this install but realize that the value in the brackets was spreading the light sources closer to the where they are needed. Will see when I use them at night if I really notice anything but they added so much brightness that It was almost too much.

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Lesson learned tonight. I went to remove the top panels and couldn’t get the latch to disconnect. At. All.

I finally realized that the IAG light on the front row was blocking the latch from opening. After removing the screw and pulling the light it opened no problem.

So for those removing your IAG brackets, remember that it basically blocks the latches from opening with a JTops installed. Easy 30-sec removal of the screw so no biggie.
 

TheLawnDart

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Dec 25, 2022
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Finally got around to getting the lights installed! Hardwired the Oracle rear light to the continuous power of the OEM trunk LED light so I could get power anytime I opened the doors while keeping the 12v power socket open. Then I put a quick release connector for when I take the top off. Also hooked up the IAG dome lights to AUX 6 and have some questions for anyone who may know:
- If tapped into the interior lighting, will the dome lights stay off if I switch all the interior lights off via the overhead switch?
- If tapped into the interior lights, does the aux switch override the lights “on” if selected?

Pictures for light differences and the quick release connector!
 

JohnGalt

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Installed the SmarterHome Bronco Hard Top Lifter today.

Positives:
- great material and build quality
- exceptionally well thought through design, down to clever cable management
- Easy intuitive app which paired with winches without an issue
- great control, super slow for the critical last few inches or faster for running the top up or down to storage
- out of the way when in use or not in use
- pretty easy to install, once you figure out the missing and conflicting instructions
- you can easily walk under it when top is stored with 10’ ceilings, I’m 6’2”
- uses 110v outlet from garage door opener
- no ground based
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lifter to store when not in use

Negatives:
- despite exceptionally well thought through design, the instructions and company videos are pretty poor. The written instructions contain some conflicting illustrations and don’t contain relevant information, like how wide to set the cross bars. The videos are more marketing than actually helpful. They gloss over most of the installation.
- placement could be a challenge depending on the size of your garage and placement of garage door openers, lights and other items on your ceiling.

Note: ignore the electrical wiring in picture, I am in the process of relocating a light fixture. The lifter is powered by plug in cord.
 

JMCBraptor

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Had the windows done with 3M Crystalline Automotive Window Film I have used this on all of my vehicles. My guy does the PPF as well bet was telling me that it wont really protect the paint correctly if I will actually have the car off road. Has anyone had any luck with the PPF actually working with rocks and branches? I feel my installer prefers to be honest about it vs having me redo it often...​


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TurboS

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Had the windows done with 3M Crystalline Automotive Window Film I hae used this on all of my vehicles. My guy does the PPF as well bet was telling me that it wont really protect the paint correctly if I will actually have the car off road. Has anyone had any luck with the PPF actually working with rocks and branches? I feel my installer prefers to be honest about it vs having me redo it often...​


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Windows look great, appears they all had the additional tint, what percentage is it?
@JohnGalt has a lot of experience with the PPF off road, maybe he can offer first hand experience with the Raptor. PPF is a must for my vehicle’s if I plan to drive them and has saved my vehicles paint many times over. This video is a good durability demonstration.
 

TheLawnDart

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Had the windows done with 3M Crystalline Automotive Window Film I hae used this on all of my vehicles. My guy does the PPF as well bet was telling me that it wont really protect the paint correctly if I will actually have the car off road. Has anyone had any luck with the PPF actually working with rocks and branches? I feel my installer prefers to be honest about it vs having me redo it often...​


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Just my experience with PPF which is supported by the video provided: PPF does a DAMN good job preventing scratches. I’ve put my bronco through some hell and can only find a few scratches hidden when there isn’t any PPF. What I didn’t really know is that it’s doesn’t protect very well against denting, so I was surprised to see dents on my doors from rocks being kicked up. To get a dent fixed it only costs ~$90 per dent with paintless dent repair since the paint was intact. All in all I’d say long run you’ll buy yourself some piece of mind and your car will very likely not see a scratch where the PPF is. Expect dents on the doors either way if you plan to thrash it about in the rocks/mud. I’d say the cost is probably a little more for a PPF though and it would probably be slightly cheaper to not get one, then just pay to have scratches buffed out/ repainted down the road. You’ll just have to deal with the car having scratches on it for long periods of time. I got PPF and I don’t regret it, but I also got mud flaps to deal with the rocks throws that were hitting my doors.
 

JMCBraptor

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Windows look great, appears they all had the additional tint, what percentage is it?
@JohnGalt has a lot of experience with the PPF off road, maybe he can offer first hand experience with the Raptor. PPF is a must for my vehicle’s if I plan to drive them and has saved my vehicles paint many times over. This video is a good durability demonstration.
Windows look great, appears they all had the additional tint, what percentage is it?
@JohnGalt has a lot of experience with the PPF off road, maybe he can offer first hand experience with the Raptor. PPF is a must for my vehicle’s if I plan to drive them and has saved my vehicles paint many times over. This video is a good durability demonstration.
Thanks for the info... Im going to watch that 100%
I did the windshield at 70% pretty much clear and the rest of the car at 60% It just looks dark.
 

JMCBraptor

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Feb 18, 2023
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Escalade V ,Raptor R, Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit Reserve
Windows look great, appears they all had the additional tint, what percentage is it?
@JohnGalt has a lot of experience with the PPF off road, maybe he can offer first hand experience with the Raptor. PPF is a must for my vehicle’s if I plan to drive them and has saved my vehicles paint many times over. This video is a good durability demonstration.
Thats a great Video!
 

DallasCajun

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In case you’re having a similar challenge here’s my fun for the day.

I’m not a fan of rattles, and pretty sure most others here aren’t either. Having said that any vehicle that is taken apart and put back together as much as these are bound to develop some sort of annoying sounds.

Not sure this is due to my tinkering or just a small thing inherent to the Bronco. Mine has a nasty rattle/vibration coming from the front Sun visors. I’ve been under the impression it was caused when I took apart the trim to install the IAG interior lights and subsequently taped down the wiring under the trim and added some felt tape here and there. No bueno…still rattled. The only thing that would get it to go away was pressing up on the sun visor. As soon as I released pressure it would come back. Then this morning I decided to pull the sun visor down and just press on the trim itself…but once I pulled the shade down the rattle went away.

A-Ha! I got you now sucker…

After some investigation it appears the document clip built into the visor is making contact with the trim covers even though there’s a small rubber knob on the other side to help eliminate such rubbing. So I placed some felt tape on the trim where the clip is aligned and ‘poof’ no more rattling. Fingers crossed that will permanently fix the rattle.

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JohnGalt

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Big week for me on WDYDTYBRT! First i went up high with the hard to lifter and today I went down low with new beadlock rims…. Icon Rebound Pros (not typical bead locks) in Satin Black. 17x8.5 6x135 +6 87.1 bore.

I decided to run with the stock K02 tires for awhile and do bigger tires/lift in the future.

Went with these rims as they::
-have same low tire pressure capability
-easier to remove beadlock bolts after trail carnage
-DOT compliant (unlike most beadlocks)
- no maintenance required to periodically retorque rims
- lighter than typical beadlocks
- still have some positive offset (+6 vs typical 0 to -10). So an less than an inch of actual poke, I can live with that but more than I care for
- pretty cheap ( $285/wheel)


I do see some downsides though
- not “easy” to re mount on the trail like a typical beadlock
- no replaceable rash rings (I have some painters tape and a can of spray paint on hot standby)
- a pain in the a$$ to change tires out, similar to typical beadlocks

and the best part, I like the simple style which will be WAAAAY easier to clean than my OEM rims. Not sure why they design rims with so many pointless nooks, crannies and small pass throughs between spokes.

All the stock rims (base or beadlock capables) at +34 are going to get rash all over the face (already did one of mine) quickly, they’re just too exposed, but I totally understand why Ford has gone that way.

in any case, the wallet‘s a little lighter, but I’m happy with the decision
oh I’ll be selling my base rims, 4 in great condition one with some trail tattoos. Any thoughts on their value?
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Dragoon

Dragoon

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  • #439
That InnerLock feature is cool! I hadn't seen this before so I had to look it up. Here's a link for more information on how it works.

 

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